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Italy : Rome - September 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The autumn breeze and the fresh evenings make the Roman sunshine all the more pleasant – wear sturdy shoes and set about exploring the ancient and modern soul of the Eternal City. Until 15 September, Museo dell’Ara Pacis presents Roma in Scena, a series of dance shows and concerts performed at the feet of the Altar of Peace. Solveig Steinhardt books a ticket

Getting around

Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport

Bus: The Terravision bus is cheap (about €15 for a return), but the timetable less frequent – there’s approximately one bus every two hours and the journey takes 45 minutes.
Train: The Leonardo Express runs every 30 minutes into Termini station. The journey takes 35 minutes and costs €11.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 50 minutes. Expect to pay around €40-60.
Tourist information: The main office is at 11 Via Parigi (, www.romaturismo.com).

CELIO

The Colosseum is just steps away and there’s the chance of scoring fine food on every corner.

Sleep soundly – At RetRome (13 Via Marghera, , retrome. net, rooms from €75), one of the trendiest B&Bs in town, each room is furnished with mid-century items. Talk to Moti and see if he can book you the room with the wall-sized Marilyn Monroe photo. The company also has apartments across the city.

Must eat – The small I Clementini (106 Via di San Giovanni in Laterano, ) serves excellent strozzapreti pasta with pachino tomatoes. Ask to be seated in the covered garden.

Must drink – Order a cappuccino from Cafè Cafè (44 Via dei SS Quattro). Nearby, Coming Out (8 Via di San Giovanni in Laterano) serves beers to a gay-friendly, unpretentious crowd until late into the night.

ESQUILINE AND SAN LORENZO

Rome’s Chinatown is lively all day. Come here for the city’s biggest spice market and excellent ethnic food.

Must eat – Tired of the super-thin Roman pizza? La Gallina Bianca (9 Via Rosmini, tel. ) serves the true Neapolitan thick-crust in a lively setting. A little heavier on the wallet, Agata e Romeo (45 Via Carlo Alberto, tel. ) serves an outstanding fresh garlic and scampi soup.

Must drink – Agave Bistrot (7a Via di San Martino Ai Monti) is the perfect aperitivo café for the first rainy days of September, comprising two floors of books and wine. Don’t forget to ask for a slice of homemade cake.

Dance the night away – Don’t miss the wild opening party of Micca Club (7a Via Pietro Micca) on 24 September, with live burlesque shows and a DJ spinning tunes from the 1950s.

CENTRO STORICO

Spend a day in the city centre gazing at fabulous art, tucking into fantastic food, then hitting the shops.

Sleep soundly – Check in at Exedra (47 Piazza della Repubblica, , exedra.boscolo hotels.com, rooms from €315), for five-star luxury in a gorgeous 19th-century building.

Culture vultures – Don’t miss Roma in Scena, a series of events including dance, theatre and live music, performed until 15 September inside Richard Meier’s Museo dell’Ara Pacis (Lungotevere in Augusta).

Must eat – The chefs at modern Italian ‘Gusto (9 Piazza Augusto Imperatore, tel. ) experiment with Mediterranean flavours and always come up with delightful surprises. Go for the fried zucchini flowers filled with mozzarella and anchovy.

Must drink – Intellectuals like to meet at Papyrus Café (28 Via de Lucchesi), where coffee and drinks are served up alongside more than 3,000 books. There’s also a book exchange corner and an exciting programme of literary events throughout the year.

Dance the night away – Spot local celebs at minimalist disco-pub Bloom (30 Via del Teatro Pace).

Shop til you drop – Sermoneta (61 Piazza di Spagna) stocks a selection of beautifully crafted leather gloves in every colour imaginable.

TRASTEVERE

With clothes hanging out to dry over a maze of small alleys lined with trattorias and bottegas (workshops), Trastevere is the true soul of Rome.

Must eat – One of the best Indian restaurants in town, Surya Mahal (50 Piazza Trilussa, tel. ) serves gently spiced dishes such as coconut shrimp, plus pretty views.

Must drink – Bar San Calisto (3 Piazza San Calisto) has been a neighbourhood favourite for more than 70 years.

Shop til you drop – Urban Tales (21a Via dei Fienaroli) stocks established names such as Adidas alongside new designers such as Urban Tree.

Compiled by Solveig Steinhardt