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Spain : Seville - September 2009

Country Code: Dial for Spain

The steamy Spanish summer heat has cooled by September, which makes a stroll around Seville much more comfortable. Head for the leafy shade of Parque de Maria Luisa, where you can see jazz-flamenco star Martirio on 29 September, look around museums, slurp ice cream and travel in style on a horse-drawn trap. Josephine Quintero gets carried away

Getting around

Seville San Pablo Airport

Bus: Buses leave every half hour on weekdays and every hour at weekends. They start at about 6am and finish around 11pm. Tickets cost €2 and the journey takes about 25 minutes.
Taxi: A journey from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and costs approximately €20.
Tourist information: The main tourist offices can be found at 28 Calle Arjona (tel. ) and 19 Plaza de San Francisco (tel. , www.turismo.sevilla.org).

EL ARENAL

This lively part of town packs a serious sightseeing punch and has some great shopping, too.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Vincci La Rábida (24 Calle Castelar, tel. , vinccihoteles.com, rooms from €250) is a former palace with sumptuous rooms arranged around two courtyards. Enjoy panoramic views from the rooftop terrace.

Culture vultures – Museo de Bellas Artes (9 Plaza Museo) is a superb museum, up in the Prado’s league, while nearby architectural highlights include the famous bullring Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza on the riverfront Paseo de Colón.

Must eat – Enjoying a prime position on the river, elegant Abades Triana (69 Calle Betis, tel. ) takes traditional dishes such as besugo con gambitas (sea bream with shrimp) and infuses them with nouvelle pizzazz.

Must drink – Enjoy a caffeine fix at the welcoming Confitería La Campana (corner of Calle Sierpes and Martín Villa), a traditional 19th-century café.

Dance the night away – Bauhaus (53 Calle Marqués de Paradas) stages live music in a cavernous setting.

Shop til you drop – Flip through the frills at Lola Azahares (31 Calle Cuna), with its racks of flamenco dresses and colourful accessories.

BARRIO DE SANTA CRUZ

A beguiling tangle of cobbled streets, pint-size plazas and atmospheric bars, this charming barrio is located near Seville’s must-see cathedral.

Sleep soundly – In the heart of the neighbourhood, 19th-century Hostería del Laurel (5 Plaza de los Venerables, tel. , hosteriadellaurel.com, rooms from €70) has plain, comfortable bedrooms surrounding a patio.

Culture vultures – Enjoy the folk-cumflamenco sound of Martirio at Teatro Lope de Vega (Avenida María Luisa) on 29 September. The park is also the site of two excellent museums – one on folklore and the other on culture and archeology.

Must eat – Corral del Agua (6 Calle del Agua, tel. ) is worth the splurge, with its unmatched location and menu of Arab-inspired dishes and desserts. Try the cola de toro al estilo de Sevilla (Seville-style bull’s tail). For a lively atmosphere, coupled with traditional tasty tapas – including a matchless tortilla – Bodega Santa Cruz (Calle Rodrigo Caro, tel. ) won’t disappoint.

Dance the night away – Head for the Alfalfa district’s chilled-out Calle Peréz Galdós, which is home to an energetic strip of late-night bars including the popular Nao (28 Calle Pérez Galdós). The bar serves some killer cocktails, including agua de Sevilla (the local drink made with whisky, triple sec, pineapple juice and cava).

TRIANA

Escape the coach-loads of tourists across the river in earthy and atmospheric Triana.

Sleep soundly – Comfortable and centrally located, Hotel Monte Triana (24 Calle Clara de Jesús Montero, tel. , hotelesmonte.com, rooms from €80) has large, light rooms with parquet floors.

Culture vultures – Duck into Capilla de la Estrella (76 Calle San Jacinto) to ogle the lavish gold altar with its elaborate central Virgin.

Must eat – Manolo Villalón (4 Calle Rodrigo de Triana, tel. ) is an down-to-earth local restaurant with reliable tapas and traditional dishes, including a tasty fish pie.

Must drink – Bodega La Albariza (6 Calle Betis) is the place to enjoy a glass of fine wine from the barrel.

Dance the night away – Join the lively local crowd that fills La Otra Orilla (Paseo de Nuestra Señora de la O) at weekends.

Shop til you drop – Ceramica Montaluán (21 Calle Alfareria) is the only surviving ceramic workshop in Triana. Ask to be shown around the building (it dates from 1850 – and looks it), then check out the goods in the adjacent shop.

Compiled by Josephine Quintero