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Italy : Turin - September 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

With the last vestiges of summer still in evidence and the city’s distinctly Gallic pavement culture in full swing, September is one of the best times to visit Turin. This month, the Piedmont capital co-hosts the Settembre Musica festival (mitosettembremusica.it) with Milan, with concerts across the city from 3-24 September. Matt Barker has front-row seats

Getting around

Caselle airport

Bus: A bus service from the airport to the city centre runs every 30 minutes, from 5.15am to 11pm (see www.sadem.it). The journey takes 40 minutes and costs €5.
Train: Trains run directly into Dora station from the airport. The service departs every 30 minutes (see www.gtt.to.it) and takes 40 minutes. Tickets cost €3.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre takes about 30 minutes and costs €35. Tourist information: The city’s main tourist office is at the Atrium, Piazza Solferino (tel. , www.turismotorino.org).

PIAZZA SAN CARLO

This busy piazza is the hub of the city’s café culture, with its classical porticoes and baroque flourishes.

Sleep soundly – The new Town House 70 (70 Via XX Settembre, 1 , townhouse.it, rooms from €134) has plenty of designer trappings. Go for a junior suite, which does a nice line in lose-yourself comfort. Albergo San Carlo (197 Piazza San Carlo, , albergosancarlo.it, rooms from €85) is a cheaper option, with rooms overlooking the piazza.

Must eat – Del Cambio (2 Piazza Carignano, tel. ) serves classic seasonal Piedmont cuisine. Try the house dish, risotto al barolo, prepared with a generous helping of red wine. Al Garamond (14 Via Pomba, ) is equally patriotic when it comes to using local flavours, including gnocchetti with pesto and salsiccia (Italian sausage).

Must drink – Caffè San Carlo (156 Piazza San Carlo) is one of the poshest places to hang out in the city, while Caffè Torino (204 Piazza San Carlo) is more relaxed though no less swanky, with its art-nouveau interiors and fin de siècle glamour.

GIARDINO REALE

Attached to the magnificent Palazzo Reale, these gardens have been providing a lush green refuge for the city’s residents since the 17th century.

Culture vultures – The gardens were opened in 1697, with Tritoni fountain said to be the mystical heart of this most spiritual of cities. Museo di Antichità (88c Via XX Settembre) has a collection of antiques dating back to Etruria and the ancient Greeks.

Shop til you drop – La Bisaccia (1 Via Carlo Alberto) sells luxury accessories to tempt the more discerning bag ladies, while Umbraculum (9 Via Barbaroux) is a chic homeware store that specialises in candles, selling thousands of them.

VIA PO

Leading down to the river from the Piazza Castello, Via Po cuts through the city’s university district.

Culture vultures – Galleria Sabauda (6 Via Accademia delle Scienze) was opened in 1832 and houses the art collection of the Savoy family, including works by Anthony van Dyck, Jan van Eyck and Rembrandt. Museo di Arti Decorative (55 Via Po) is a splendid old palazzo decorated in rich 18th-century style, with guided tours available in English.

Must drink – Grab an aperitivo at Caffè Roberto (5 Via Po), where you can pretty much eat your fill at one of the counters groaning under the weight of pastas, salads and other nibbles. Drogheria (18 Piazza Vittoria Veneto) is an altogether sleeker proposition with attendant DJ soundtrack.

ALBA

Half an hour from the centre of Turin, this small medieval town is famous for its truffle market, but has much else to recommend it to inquisitive foodies.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Savona (1 Via Roma, , hotelsavona. com, rooms from €85) is bang in the centre of town and is a comfy stand-by. Villa La Meridiana (9 Località Altavilla, , villalameridianaalba.it, rooms from €90) lies up in the hills and is wonderfully traditional. The small apartments here come with their own terraces, where you can soak up the last rays of the summer sun.

Must eat – Eating out in one of Italy’s most celebrated gastro towns can be expensive. However, Dulcis Vitis (7 Via Rattazzi, ), with its bricked arches, is a real charmer. The menu is brimming with local specialities. Try the risotto alla piemontese with (naturally enough) truffle. Equally good – and a little cheaper – is l’Osteria del Teatro (7 Via Govone Generale, ), where you can tuck into hearty regional fare, including a dessert of tortino with hot chocolate.

Compiled by Matt Barker