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Italy : Bologna - October 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

VIA INDIPENDENZA AND VIA FARINI

Leading up to Piazza Maggiore, this is the main artery of the bustling centro.

Sleep soundly – All exposed beams and rustic charm, Albergo delle Drapperie (5 Via delle Drapperie, tel. , albergodrapperie.com, rooms from €75) is comfy and central. Grab a room with a balcony overlooking Quadrilatero. Art Hotel Orologio (10 Via IV Novembre, , bolognarthotels.it, rooms from €220) is pricey but quiet, with room 59 (looking towards Maggiore) the pick of the bunch.

Culture vultures – Museo Morandi (6 Piazza Maggiore), housed in Palazzo d’Accursio, is a fine tribute to the celebrated artist Giorgio Morandi, with a huge collection of still-life studies.

Shop til you drop – Most of the bigname Italian labels have established a beachhead here, with Via Farini the best stopping-off point. Cavalli I Classici (11 Via Farini), Gucci (Galleria Cavour), Armani (11a Via Farini) and Dolce & Gabbana (14a Via Farini) are all within a credit card’s width of each other.

PIAZZA SANTO STEFANO

One of the city’s great squares is dominated by a quartet of churches.

Must eat – The unassuming L’Infedele (5 Via Gerusalemme, tel. ) is a small osteria that keeps it simple. Kick off with the crostini, then eat your way through a platter of speciality meats. La Scuderia (2 Piazza Verdi, ) is set in former Renaissance stables. Come here for light dishes (a plus point in this city) and new-age salads.

Shop til you drop – On the second weekend of every month, the antiques market sees Piazza Santa Stefano besieged by market-stall holders selling everything from bric-a-brac to top-end vintage pieces.

LE DUE TORRI

Together with a steaming bowl of tortellini, these two towers are among the great icons of Bologna.

Culture vultures – Although the Garisenda tower is closed to the public, you can climb the 498 steps of its twin, the Asinelli tower (Piazza di Porta Ravegnana). Catch your breath at the Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city. Bus A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena. Taxi The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18. Tourist office The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (tel. ). top, only to have it taken away again by the extraordinary views.

Must eat – For a real belt-loosening treat, try Pappagallo (3 Piazza della Mercanzia, tel. ), where you can tuck into tortellini in brodo (tortellini in broth). Leave room for a dessert of crema liquida con biscottini (custard with biscuits). For a cheaper option, try Benso (3 Vicolo San Giobbe, tel. ), a cheerful trattoria offering dishes such as lamb served with bolognese mushroom sauce.

Must drink – If you’re in the mood for live music and friendly locals, Vicolo Bolognetti (2 Vicolo Bolognetti) is a great little dive, where you can experience modern Bologna at its best. Caffè Maxim (6 Piazza della Mercanzia) is a fine spot to spend the cocktail hour.

ARCHIGINNASIO

Sitting under a long stretch of portico, this is the site of Europe’s oldest university – founded in 1088 – and still hosts regular lectures by local boy and intellectual colossus Umberto Eco.

Culture vultures – Museo Civico Archeologico (2 Via dell’Archiginnasio) is a treasure trove of curios – including everything from Etruscan-age pieces to Egyptian artefacts and spooky skeletons – placed in an endless maze of display cabinets. The Archiginnasio itself (Via dell’Archiginnasio) is still very much an active seat of learning and a visit to Teatro Anatomico, the original dissection theatre here, is always recommended

Must drink – Zanarini (1 Piazza Galvani) has a distinctive 1950s feel and is popular with students and an arty crowd, attracted by decidedly posh aperitivo offerings, including quail eggs and shrimp.

Compiled by Matt Barker