Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

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Belgium : Brussels - November 2009

Country Code: Dial for Belgium

There’s no time to succumb to the winter blues this month, as a master brewer invites you to an all-day brewing session (7 November, cantillon.be), the eclectic Cimatics festival (20-29 November, cimatics. com) showcases the best in audiovisual art and the Cocoon interior design fair (13-22 November, cocoon.be) reveals how you can turn dreary homes into cosy nests. Nina Lamparski reports

Getting around

Brussels Airport

Bus: The No 12 bus runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Rond-Point Schuman. The journey takes about 30 minutes. A oneway ticket costs €3.
Train: Trains from the airport run every 20 minutes at peak times. The journey takes 15 minutes and trains go to Brussels’ three mainline stations. Tickets cost approximately €2,80
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost around €25-35. The journey should take about 25 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office can be found on Grand’Place in the city centre (tel. , www.brussels.

MARCHÉ AUX POISSONS

Fishermen used to sail into the heart of Brussels on the Willebroek Canal and sell their fresh catches at the vismêt (fish market) – now a pretty square. This romantic neighbourhood is still teeming with excellent seafood restaurants and has great shopping.

Culture vultures – The dance and dramatic arts centre La Bellone (46 Rue de Flandre) has a glorious 18th-century façade by Grand’Place architect Jean Cosyn, and is is covered by a modernday glass roof. Also noteworthy is the ultra-eclectic European Centre for Contemporary Art (44 Place Sainte- Catherine). Built between 1901 and 1903, the building was Brussels’ fi rst electricity plant.

Must eat – Locals love La Belle Maraîchère (11a Place Sainte-Catherine, tel. ), a traditional seafood restaurant which has been around for more than 35 years and is listed in the Michelin Guide. The one downside is that the tables are placed close together. Watch the chef prepare fresh fish in the open-plan Le Vismet (23 Place Sainte-Catherine, tel. ), a favourite with journalists and politicians. Carnivores should book a table at Babeko (26 Place Sainte- Catherine, tel. ) and try the ostrich steak cooked with butter, served with sweet potato French fries. The wine list is also excellent.

Must drink – Arts students, media folk and blue collar workers happily mingle at the Daringman (37 Rue de Flandre), known for its cosy, unpretentious atmosphere and good Belgian beer.

Dance the night away – Swirl autumn leaves out of the way with salsa, rumba and merengue at long-established and highly recommended Cartagena (70 Rue Marché aux Charbons).

Shop til you drop – Spend your cash the healthy way and support local growers at the weekly bio market on the Sainte-Catherine square. The event takes place every Wednesday between 7.30am and 3pm. Or give in to temptation and pop into shoe shop Mellow Yellow (98 Rue Antoine Dansaert) – you’ll find stuff by the Antwerp Six and many other designers. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

PLACE DE LA LIBERTÉ

This charming square, close to one of the capital’s busiest boulevards, was once a dodgy, run-down area. Browse in old-fashioned bookshops and warm up with a latte. Catch the metro to Madou, cross the road and walk past the Brabançonne statue.

Sleep soundly – Traditionalists will appreciate the three-star Hotel du Congrès (42 Rue du Congrès, tel. , hotelducongres.be, rooms from €75) based inside a renovated 19th-century townhouse. The rooms with stunning wall frescos painted by young European artists make Hotel Bloom (250 Rue Royal, tel. , hotelbloom.com, rooms from €170) one of the most original places to stay in Brussels. Take the lift to the eighth floor for stunning views.

Culture vultures – Check out the fascinating Cimatics Festival (cimatics. com), held in various city locations close to the Liberté square. Highlights include the vernissage of the Binary Waves installation inside the 18th-century Gesù Church, and the I ♥ BRU parties. Or visit the photo expo centred on Arab women’s lives at the Centre Culturel Arabe (2 Rue de l’Alliance) from 13-29 November.

Must eat – Italian eatery ArtiPasta (1 Place de la Liberté, tel. ) showcases art, and you can’t go wrong with the pasta here. Renowned for its fresh food and delightful interior, the two female chefs at the award-winning Thaï Coffee (50 Rue du Congrès, tel. ) serves delicious Asian dishes. Try the spicy kaeng chuchi (salmon fillet in red curry and coconut milk).

Must drink – When in Belgium, do as the locals do and get slowly drunk at the Liberty (7 Place de la Liberté), a favourite with the Flemish crowd.

Dance the night away – On the other side of the boulevard is the Mirano Continental Nightclub (38 Chaussée de Louvain). Recently refurbished, the cool and mostly snob-free club attracts a colourful mix of people, from ageing film producers to up-and-coming artists.

CHAUSSÉE DE CHARLEROI

It might not look all that exciting with its traffic and tram line, but this broad street not only links the posh Place Stéphanie with fashionable Saint- Gilles, but is also home to a brace of culinary hotspots, great bars and organic food stores. And it’s just around the corner from the amazing Avenue Louise shopping mile.

Must eat – It’s hard to pick a favourite among the many good restaurants on this street but there are three that stand out. The new Los Ponchos (158 Chaussée de Charleroi, tel. ) means Brussels can at last lay claim to a great Mexican restaurant. Order the ponchitos to sample several in-house specialties. Touareg (80 Chaussée de Charleroi, tel. ) does delectable tagines and service is super friendly, while Patagonia (179 Chaussée de Charleroi, tel. ) cooks mouthwatering Argentinian steaks.

Must drink – Join the posh crowds for cocktails at the Loui Lounge (77 Avenue Louise), part of the five-star Conrad Hotel. Crooners should swoon to the New York Music Café (5 Chaussée de Charleroi), while those in search of affordable cosiness will be happiest at Baraza (28 Rue Jourdan).

Dance the night away – Louise Gallery (Level 1, Galerie Louise, Avenue Louise) puts on themed club nights like Miami Vice and pulls in quite a young crowd. If you can bear being the oldest on the dance floor, it’s actually a lot of fun. Best enjoyed with a large group of friends.

Shop til you drop – Curious Atipik (170a Chaussée de Charleroi) does a nice line in odd-but-gorgeous interior design items. Bioflore (144 Chaussée de Charleroi) specialises in essential oils, aromatherapy and natural cosmetics. If you need to update your wardrobe for winter, drop by Italian store Soho (6 Place Stéphanie), hidden away at the end of a long passageway off the Stéphanie square.

JETTE

Once home to the Belgian father of surrealism, René Magritte, this pretty municipality promotes itself as ‘a village in the city’. The university campus ensures there’s always a vibrant atmosphere in Jette, and the historical sights make it an interesting day-trip diversion.

Sleep soundly – You run the risk of never leaving your room if you stay at Lenoir 96 (96 Rue Ferdinand Lenoir, tel. , lenoir96.com, rooms from €120). Mixing original art deco elements such as stained-glass windows with contemporary touches, it comes with Wi-Fi and a lovely breakfast room. It’s a 15-minute ride from the Grand’Place, and close to major sightseeing attractions such as the Atomium and Tour & Taxis.

Culture vultures – First and foremost, there is the house at 135 Esseghemstraat where Magritte lived from 1930-54. It’s now the René Magritte Museum. What’s left of the beautiful Abbey of Dieleghem (14 Rue Jean Tiebackx) – founded in 1100 – now hosts exhibitions, a faience collection and local archives.

Must eat – For a very different dining experience, book a table at Comme Chez Toi (12 Avenue Capart, tel. ), a tiny restaurant inside a private home, serving themed menus (try the Armenian dishes). Booking is essential here.

Shop til you drop – Jette is well known for its interior design and antique stores. For opulent furniture and art objects, head to Momentum (594 Chaussée de Jette). If you’re in the mood for pampering yourself, you should visit the lovely Yves Rocher beauty centre and spa (6 Place Reine Astrid).

Compiled by Nina Lamparski