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Switzerland : Geneva - November 2009

Country Code: Dial for Switzerland

November in Geneva is picture perfect. The lakeside becomes a magical fairyland of vibrant art as the Festival Arbres & Lumières (until 29 November) sees the tree-lined banks decorated with lights. And after a brisk winter stroll, you can warm up in one of the cinemas hosting the annual Tous Ecran film festival (2-8 November) Lou McMullen takes a seat

Getting around

Geneva Cointrin International Airport

Bus: If staying on the left bank, the No 10 will get you to Cornavin Station in 10 minutes and across the river in about 15 minutes
Train: The train from the airport to the city centre takes six minutes. A one-hour Tout Genève pass costs €1,90/CHF 3, which you can also use on buses.
Taxi: Taxis cost €19-25/CHF 30-40 and take about 15 minutes to the centre.
Tourist information: 18 Rue du Mont-Blanc (, www.genevetourism.ch).

CORNAVIN

The area around the train station is packed to the gills with good shops and restaurants.

Sleep soundly – Across the road from the station, Hotel Cornavin (Gare de Cornavin, tel. , fassbindhotels.com, rooms from €206/ CHF 312) has panoramic views and the world’s tallest mechanical clock.

Must eat – The Auberge de Coutance (25 Rue de Coutance, tel. ) specialises in duck dishes, and has welcoming, friendly service. It’s always packed to the rafters, so be sure to book in advance.

Dance the night away – One of the liveliest nightclubs in town, Shakers (4 Rue Arnold Winkelried) pulls in a mixed crowd. Beware the deceptively innocent tasting cocktails if you don’t want a sore head the next morning.

Shop til you drop – Forget pricey boutiques and head straight to department store Manor (6 Rue de Cornavin), just a short walk from the station. Great for gifts, it also has a luxurious supermarket and a wonderful rooftop restaurant with brilliant views.

PAQUIS

Heading towards the lake, this rather tame red-light district is a good place to eat and drink at more tourist-friendly prices.

Culture vultures – Walk along the banks of the lake and take in the beautiful sights forming part of the Arbres & Lumières Festival that runs throughout the month.

Must eat – For great scenery at prices that won’t break the bank, pop into the Buvettes des Bains (30 Quai du Mont Blanc, tel. ). This bistro on the jetty serves fantastic local cuisine, including cheese fondues, at budget prices. It’s also open from 8am, so is perfect for a lakeside breakfast.

PLAINPALAIS

This is the city’s party district and it’s well worth exploring if you fancy a night on the tiles.

Sleep soundly – For a lovely boutique hotel in Belle Epoque style, try the Hotel Tiffany (20 Rue de L’Arquebuse, tel. , hotel-tiffany.ch, rooms from €142/CHF 215).

Culture vultures – Head to the cultural hotspot Maison des Arts du Grütli (16 Rue de Général Dufour) and take in a movie that’s part of the Tous Ecran film festival (2-8 November) which showcases the best of the silver screen from around the world.

Must drink – Turn into the Rue de l’Ecole de Médicine and take your pick from the Fleur de Lys (Number 7 ), which is popular with the arty, academic crowd, Le Ferblanterie (Number 8), a cheaper alternative, or the psychedlic Love Me Do (Number 12), a teetotal option that does shakes and ice creams.

Shop til you drop – Get your Christmas shopping done early and hit the Plaine de Plainpalais for its sprawling flea market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Items for sale here range from upmarket and art deco pieces to more quirky collector’s items.

VIEILLE VILLE

Explore the pretty, cobbled back streets of Geneva’s old town, lined with tall, shuttered houses and steeped in atmosphere.

Sleep soundly – For a real treat, base yourself at the sumptuous 19thcentury La Cigogne (17 Place Longemalle, tel. , cigogne.ch, rooms from €278/ CHF 420), right in the heart of the old town.

Culture vultures – It’s the 500th anniversary of the birth of John Calvin, the Protestant reformer, so why not visit the Saint Pierre Cathedral (Cour Saint Pierre), where he preached? Then find out about Genevois life from the 16th century onwards at Maison Tavel (6 Rue de Puits Saint Pierre).

Must drink – La Clémence (20 Place du Bourg de Four) is named after the largest of the cathedral bells and is a favourite with locals and tourists alike.

Compiled by Lou McMullen