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Sweden : Gothenburg - November 2009

Country Code: Dial for Sweden

Want to see Sweden but don’t fancy coming home penniless? Try Gothenburg, where food, fares and accommodation are substantially cheaper than in Stockholm. And Sweden’s second city is an even more attractive proposition this month, with the Gothenburg International Art Biennial on until 15 November, says Victoria Larsson

Getting around

Landvetter

Bus: Flygbussarna airport coaches stop at Nils Ericson Terminalen (the main bus station), Kungsportsplatsen (for the old town), Park Avenue (on Avenyn) and Korsvägen. A return ticket costs €15/SEK 140 and takes 30 minutes, with departures every 20 minutes during peak times.
Taxi: Taxis offer a fixed price for the 30-minute journey into town (about €36/SEK 338).
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at 2 Kungsportsplatsen (2500, goteborg.com).

LINNÉSTADEN

There’s the grit and traffic jams near Järntorget, the pretty cobblestone streets of Haga and the huge green lung of Slottskogen.

Sleep soundly – Hotell Riverton (26 Stora Badhusgatan, tel. , riverton.se, rooms from €82/SEK845) is done out in bright whites. Spend slightly more on a deluxe room – all American maple and beds so heavenly it’ll be hard to leave your room.

Must eat – Egg and Milk (23 Övre Husaregatan, tel. ) is an American diner – replete with chrome and Formica – where pink-clad waitresses hurry back and forth.

Must drink – The centrepiece at Far East-inspired Lotus Bar (47 Linnégatan) is a huge Buddha. An open fireplace and a great selection of champagne can brighten any November night.

Shop til you drop – Karltex.se (14 and 27 Haga Nygata) does a nice line in fashion-forward, comfortable clothes – think brands like Acne, Fjällräven and Ben Sherman.

MAJORNA

Bordering Slottsskogen to the west, this predominately residential area is largely made up of those distinct three-storey buildings – with first floors made of stone and the top two built of wood – known as landshövdingehus. Originally home to blue-collar workers, this neighbourhood has become gentrified and is now sought after.

Sleep soundly – Staying at Spar Hotell Majorna (66-70 Karl Johansgatan, tel. , sparhotel.se, rooms from €68/SEK 695) feels a bit like having a pyjama party at IKEA. But it’s friendly and affordable, and the rooftop terrace is nice.

Culture vultures – Röda Sten (1 Röda Sten) is a cultural centre that includes a restaurant, a bar and an exhibition space. There’s an outdor terrace with great views of the river.

Must eat – Chateau Beirut (7 Karl Johansgatan, 4050) serves the best Middle Eastern food in town. So call ahead. Marmelad (17 Mariagatan, 1390) has a jazzy 30s ambiance, along with delicious shrimp sandwiches and a house blend of citrus and chocolatelaced Fairtrade coffee

Must drink – Meet the locals over a pint at the English-style Red Lion (11 Mariagatan). Monday night means quiz night, so be sure get there early as the place tends to get packed.

Shop til you drop – Ekoaffair (10 Bangatan) sells cool organic clothing and cute knick-knacks.

CENTRUM

The heart of Gothenburg is quite compact, making it easy to discover on foot. The pace is surprisingly slow, despite the plentiful shops, the jangle of the tram and the abundance of bars and cafés.

Sleep soundly – Try the Hotell Barken Viking (Gullbergskajen, 5800, liseberg.se, rooms from €116/ SEK 1195), a four-star hotel onboard a ship. The 29 rooms are decorated in nautical fashion: consider paying a little extra for the spacious officer’s cabin. Either way, falling asleep to the sound of waves tickling the hull is priceless.

Must eat – Räkan (16 Lorensbergsgatan, 9839) may appear a little frayed around the edges, but that’s part of the charm of this seafood joint. Tables are arranged around a large pool where small stingrays and piranhas slice through the water. Head to Tvåkanten (27 Kungsportsavenyn, 2115) for brilliant contemporary food in an elegant setting. Lunch here is a steal.

Must drink – Join the pretty young things at the Zappa Bar (2 Bastionsplatsen), to a new-wave soundtrack.

Dance the night away – Rock the boat – almost literally – at Styrbord Babord (1 Kungsportsplatsen).

Shop til you drop – Maria Westerlind (41 Kungsgatan) is a local designer who dreams up cute retro-styled clothes that are both wearable and affordable.

Compiled by Victoria Larsson