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Poland : Krakow - November 2009

Country Code: Dial for Poland

Krakow in November sees the temperature plunge and rain falls almost daily. Happily, the city still extends visitors the warmest of welcomes, and offers plenty to see and do indoors. Wander up and down the city’s cobbled streets, then duck into a café for a glass of grzaniec (warm mulled wine) before hitting the clubs. The city is also a hotbed of fascinating culture – one exhibition well worth mentioning is Ecuador: Culture on the Equator at the Ethnographic Museum. Michelle Smith warms up

Getting around

Balice Airport

Bus: Radtur runs regular buses into the city centre. A single journey costs about €1,90/PLN 7 and takes 30 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi costs around €13/PLN 50 and takes about 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office is at 1 Rynek Główny (tel. , krakow.pl). Orbis (41 Rynek Główny) also provides lots of useful information.

OLD TOWN AND RYNEK

Krakow’s Old Town is truly stunning, and even on the darkest, most drizzly November night, it retains its magic. This is the centre of the tourist area, and has homely hotels, chic restaurants and shops to satisfy every souvenir (and Christmas gift) hunter.

Sleep soundly – Try Cracow Lofts (tel. , cracowlofts.com, rooms from €27/PLN 111). The lovely Old Town Apartment is perfect for a couple, while the bohemian-chic Old Town Loft has an old-fashioned, freestanding bathtub, exposed brick walls and chandeliers. Those looking for a classical hotel will love Polski Pod Białym Orłem (17 ul. Pijarska, tel. , podorlem.com.pl, rooms from €73/PLN 300), which has great views of bustling ul. Florianska.

Must eat – Hearty and meaty, Polish food is perfect in cold weather, and Nostalgia (10 ul. Karmelicka, tel. ) serves some of the best traditional cuisine in the city. Grab a table near the fireplace, and enjoy some bigos (hunter’s stew with cabbage and smoked meat). Farina (16 ul. Sw. Marka, tel. ) has cheerfully sunny rooms and does a good fiery spaghetti, with shrimp, garlic and chilli peppers.

Shop til you drop – When visiting Poland, one must-buy souvenir is amber, and the city’s best and widest selection is to be found in the Sukiennice (Drapers’ Hall, Rynek Główny), one of Krakow’s most distinctive buildings. It was once a major focus of the city’s trade.

JEWISH KRAKOW – KAZIMIERZ

Once a neglected, unloved reminder of World War II, recently Kazimierz has started to flourish and it’s now the hottest party place in the city.

Sleep soundly – Once again, Cracow Lofts (tel. , cracowlofts.com, rooms from €27/PLN 111) delight with their stunning accommodation in ideal locations. The Kazimierz Pad is a split-level loft within minutes of Wawel Royal Castle, and the Kazimierz Balcony Studio is a quiet, elegant little place, with polished floors and massive windows. Hotel lovers will enjoy Ester (20 ul. Szeroka, tel. , hotel-ester.krakow.pl, rooms from €70/PLN 288), which has a restaurant serving Jewish cuisine, and a spa offering massages and facials.

Culture vultures – Fernando Flores Macias, the Ecuadorean ambassador to Poland, has contributed much of his private collection of curios – including paintings, snuff boxes and etchings – to the exhibition Ecuador: Culture on the Equator, at the Esterka Branch of the Ethnographic Museum (46 ul. Krakowska).

Must eat – While in Kazimierz, why not give Jewish cuisine a try? Ariel Restaurant (17/18 ul. Szeroka, tel. ) serves outstanding Jewish dumplings.

Must drink – Perhaps in response to Krakow’s chilly winters, Hawaiian bar Aloha Café (28a ul. Miodowa) has sprung up. Adorned with seashells and photos of golden beaches, it has a truly lethal list of cocktails. Half of the bar is permanently covered in sand, so kick off your shoes and gaze at the bikiniwearing locals lounging about. Just two doors down is the equally sizzling La Habana (22 ul. Miodowa), a Cuban bar with potent mojitos and salsa and rumba played almost nightly.

Dance the night away – Another Cuban-inspired venue, Buena Vista (26 ul. Józefa), sees people salsa well into the small hours. Club Clu (10 ul. Szeroka) has an amazing red-lit lounge room, original art on the walls, sculptures and a fantastic wine list. Recline on one of the white sofas and watch the clubbers dance away the pre-winter blues to Latin sounds and retro funk.

Compiled by Michelle Smith

Previous issues for Krakow

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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