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Italy : Naples - November 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The odd bit of late autumn sun, the smell of fresh coffee wafting in on a sea breeze, November in Naples can be a wonderfully bracing experience. If you fancy a posh treat, the Teatro di San Carlo, at the bottom of Via Toledo, is staging a number of performances this month, including Delibes’ ballet Coppélia (see teatrosancarlo.it for details). Matt Barker orders another macchiato

Getting around

Naples International Airport at Capodichino.

Bus: The Alibus runs directly from the airport to Stazione Centrale every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €3. The orange bus (the 3S) runs every 25 minutes. Tickets are from €1.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the centre costs around €13. An Artecard (costs from €13) is a good option giving you free travel plus some museum entry. You can buy it at the airport when you arrive (www.campaniartecard.it)
Tourist information: Go to the TEPT Office at Stazione Centrale, Piazza Garibaldi, www.eptnapoli.info)

VIA PORT’ALBA

Deep in the heart of the centro, the maze of streets surrounding Alba have an arty air, lined with secondhand bookstalls and busy bars.

Sleep soundly – PortAlba Relais (33 Via Port’Alba, , portalbarelais.com, rooms from €100) is a smart B&B with various designer trappings, including shiatsu massages on request and, appropriately enough given its location, a huge library. Bag the suite – it overlooks Piazza Dante.

Must eat – With pizzerias on every corner, it’s easy to overlook the really good places. The Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba (18 Via Port’Alba) is generally regarded as the city’s first true pizzeria. As ever, go for the classics. The Margherita is near perfect, with the marinara running a close second. I Re di Napoli (16 Piazza Dante) is worth a try because of its more extended choice. As an alternative to all that dough, try the involtini di melanzane (aubergines filled with mozzarella and basil, with a tomato sauce).

VIA SAN GREGORIO ARMENO

Christmas is coming and it’s time to stock up on your presepi – those little Neapolitan Nativity-scene figurines.

Culture vultures – The San Lorenzo Maggiore church (Piazza San Gaetano) is one of the city’s finest and includes remains of the Greek city of Neapolis.

Shop til you drop – The street is crammed with workshops and little stores selling presepi. Not only do they sell religious figures, but also modernday icons, including footballers (always including Diego Maradona) and politicians (new this year is Barack Obama). This is a bit of a tourist trap and there’s always the danger of getting ripped off, but both Gambardella Pastori (Number 40) and Giuseppe Ferrigno (Number 8) are worth a visit.

VIA CAPODIMONTE

One of the centro’s most important streets, Via Capodimonte is home to a number of iconic buildings.

Culture vultures – Visiting burial grounds might not be everyone’s idea of sightseeing, but the huge Catacombs of San Gennaro (13 Via Capodimonte) are spookily impressive. Dating back to the second century AD, they’re decorated with early Christian frescoes and best explored with the help of a tour guide. The Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte (2 Via Milano), high up on the hill, houses the Farnese Collection of Renaissance art. The rooms appear to go on forever. Nip into the café on the ground floor if you’re suffering from a cultural overload.

Must eat – Al Terrazzo (99 Viale Colli Aminei) is a classic neighbourhood eatery that serves up excellent Neapolitan cuisine, including the ubiquitous pizza. Try the scialatielli ai frutti di mare (spaghetti-like pasta with mixed seafood).

VIA TOLEDO

Cutting through the city centre and on up to the green hills of Vomero, Toledo is one of the city’s main thoroughfares and shopping districts.

Sleep soundly – Set in a small 17thcentury palazzo, Hotel Il Convento (137a Via Speranzella, tel. , hotelilconvento.com, rooms from €80) is a smart, comfy bolthole. Pick of the rooms are the two junior suites, which come with their own roof gardens.

Must drink – The Enoteca Belledonne (18 Vico Belledonne a Chiaia) is a small but perfectly formed wine bar and popular drop-in for lively locals. If you need a jolt of caffeine, head to Bar Lazzarella (7 Calata Trinità Maggiore). One of the city’s best cafés, this place always draws a crowd.

Shop til you drop – Most of the mainstream labels can be found along here, but a trip to well-stocked department store La Rinascente (340 Via Toledo) will yield the most under the one roof. Primo Emporio (57 Via Toledo) is a stylish Neapolitan favourite, big on stylish basics for women and men.

Compiled by Matt Barker