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Spain : Seville - November 2009

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Seville is a fascinating mix of Spanish culture, atmospheric tapas bars, sumptuous restaurants and stunning Moorish architecture. Counteract November’s nip in the air by enjoying wintry treats like street-side chestnuts and hot chocolate with churros (spiral-shaped doughnuts). Highlight of the cultural calendar this month is the annual film festival. Josephine Quintero rolls out the red carpet

Getting around

Seville San Pablo Airport

Bus: Buses leave every half hour on weekdays and every hour at weekends. They start at about 6am and finish around 11pm. Tickets cost €2 and the journey takes about 25 minutes.
Taxi: A journey from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and costs approximately €20.
Tourist information: The main tourist offices can be found at 28 Calle Arjona (tel. ) and 19 Plaza de San Francisco (tel. , www.turismo.sevilla.org).

BARRIO DE SANTA CRUZ & AROUND

Cobbled streets are interspersed with pretty plazas lined with orange trees and traditional tiled benches.

Sleep soundly – If you fancy tickling the ivories, check out Hotel Amadeus (10 Calle San José, tel. , hotelamadeussevilla.com, rooms from €109), with its grand piano (for guests), plus classical CDs to borrow.

Culture vultures – Don’t let the dizzy height of the cathedral’s bell tower, the Giralda, prevent your ascent. The sloped ramps are far easier than steps and the view from the top is breathtaking.

Must eat – Altamira Bar-Café (4 Calle Santa Maria la Blanca, tel. ) dishes up delicious raciones, such as habas con huevos (broad beans with scrambled eggs) and pisto (ratatouille).

Must drink – Next to the delightful Murillo Gardens, La Cava del Europa (5 Calle Santa Maria la Blanca) has a slick modern interior, outside tables, a great wine list and innovative tapas.

Dance the night away – El Tamboril (Plaza Santa Cruz) is famous for its copy of the statue of the Virgin of Rocio and spontaneous skirt-swirling flamenco and salsa.

Shop til you drop – The Rafael Ortiz gallery (12 Calle Marmoles) showcases – and sells – the work of exciting young contemporary artists.

EL ARENAL & EAST SEVILLE

This is a great area for strolling, with wide pavements and plenty to see, including one of the most beautiful city parks in Andalucía.

Sleep soundly – Built for the 1929 Expo by King Alfonso, the magnificent Hotel Alfonso XIII (2 Calle San Fernando, tel. , westin.com, rooms from €350) is one of Spain’s most luxurious hotels.

Culture vultures – The lush green oasis of the Parque Maria Luisa is home to a couple of excellent museums, as well as the Teatro Lope de Vega (Avenida María Luisa), the venue for Seville’s film festival (6-14 November).

Must eat – The Taberna del Alabardero (20 Calle Zaragoza, tel. ) has a warren of wood-clad dining rooms and serves tasty traditional dishes, such as pork and venison stew.

Must drink – Locals say Casa Morales (11 Calle Garcia de Vinuesa) is the second-oldest bar in town. Soak up the atmosphere while enjoying an ice-cold fino (dry sherry) or cerveza (beer).

Dance the night away – Elefunk (10 Calle de Adriano) is packed out with partygoers, although over 25s may feel a tad too mature for the mainly teenage clientele.

Shop til you drop – Cut out the middleman and go right to the source at El Postigo Lonja Municipal de Artesania (Calle Arfe), where local artists, jewellers and potters sell their work direct to the public.

EL CENTRO

Densely populated, with a congenial buzz, the centre of town has plenty to recommend it.

Sleep soundly – Casa Sol y Luna 1a Calle Pérez Galdós, tel. , casasolyluna1.com, rooms from €38) is excellent value, with antiques throughout and a homey welcome.

Culture vultures – Palatial mansion Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija (8 Calle Cuna) is famed for its Roman mosaics and Moorish-inspired courtyard.

Must eat – Vegetarian or not, Habanita (3 Calle Golfo, tel. ) will delight. Try the tasty black beans and rice and crunchy plantain fritters.

Must drink – La Antigua Bodeguita (6 Plaza del Salvador) is a real locals’ place, with outside barrel tables within confessional distance of the square’s namesake baroque church.

Shop til you drop – With its glossy marble pavements and enticing combination of idiosyncratic traditional and designer shops, Calle Sierpes provides irresistible retail therapy.

Compiled by Josephine Quintero