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Italy : Catania - December 2009

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Handsome Catania, renowned for its Baroque architecture, enters into the spirit of the season this month, with magnificent window displays along the main street. And nearby Caltagirone is not to be outdone, with Nativity representations and Christmas crib exhibitions, while in Syracuse they’ll be celebrating St Lucy. Ellen Grady reports

Getting around

Fontanarossa Airport

Bus: The Alibus shuttle service runs between the airport and the central train station. It’s a 15-minute journey, with buses running from 5am to midnight. Other services are available to all major Sicilian destinations, including Taormina and Palermo. The bus journey into Catania costs €2.
Taxi: Taxis are also available and the journey into Catania shouldn’t cost more than €30. All major car-hire companies are represented at the airport.
Tourist information: The main tourist information office is at 10 Via Cimarosa (, www.turismo.catania.it)

THE CENTRE

Framed by the snow-capped volcano Etna and lined with lovely black-andwhite architecture, it’s not hard to see why Via Etnea and Piazza Duomo are UNESCO World Heritage sites. Don’t miss the nearby fish market, though, just off the square. Expect a bustling atmosphere and tempting aromas.

Sleep soundly – Il Principe (20-26 Via Alessi, , ilprincipehotel.com, rooms from €84 but check for year-round special offers) is an 18th-century family home brought up to date with comfortable modern furnishings. It’s in a lovely part of the old city too. Choose the suite for extra luxury – you’ll get a king-size bed, Jacuzzi, and breathtaking views from your windows.

Must drink – Comis (7 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele) is very popular with the locals. Come here for excellent coffee, hot chocolate, light lunches and Christmas pastries.

CALTAGIRONE

Called the Queen of the Mountains by Sicilians, the ancient hilltop town of Caltagirone is an easy bus or train ride from Catania, and is one of the most important ceramic manufacturing centres in Italy. In the centre, is a long stairway uniting the upper city and the lower, and each step is decorated with different majolica tiles.

Sleep soundly – Why not stay in an aristocratic palace offering bed and breakfast? Palazzo Aprile (35 Via Sturzo, , palazzoaprile. it, doubles from €60) has luxurious rooms with lots of atmosphere, in a charming medieval setting, and offers an airport shuttle on request.

Culture vultures – Every weekend “trekking trips” are organised through the steep little streets, where you’ll find exhibitions of the typical ceramic or terra-cotta Nativity cribs. From 24 December – 6 January, a living crib is staged in the centre. Unmissable!

Must eat – Nonsolovino (1 Via Vittorio Emanuele, ) is a friendly downtown restaurant that does tasty local dishes accompanied by just the right wines.

Must drink – The Notturno Pub (157 Via Sturzo) serves excellent local wine and beer. Strictly for night owls.

Shop til you drop – With over 120 ateliers scattered throughout the town, you won’t be able to resist the distinctive local ceramics.

SYRACUSE & ORTIGIA

Easily reached by bus or train, the old seaside town of Syracuse is a delightful place to visit in December. Ortigia is Syracuse’s fascinating medieval centre. Situated on an island to the south of the city, it has a magical atmosphere.

Sleep soundly – Archimede (2 Piazza Archimede, , archimedevacanze.it, rooms from €80) is a welcoming bed and breakfast set in a beautiful square. Rooms are comfortable and some of them come with views over the lovely fountain. All have private bathrooms.

Culture vultures – Celebrations leading up to the Feast of St Lucy (the local patron saint and protector of the blind) on 13 December are followed by a series of exhibitions and events for Christmas and the New Year. Palazzo Bellomo (16 Via Capodieci, closed Mondays), a gallery of medieval art, has just reopened after many years. Admire Antonello da Messina’s masterpiece – his representation of the Annunciation.

Must eat – Near Palazzo Bellomo, Osteria da Mariano (9 Vicolo Zuccalà, ) serves up traditional food from the nearby Hyblean Mountains. Ask Mariano for his incredible ricotta ravioli with pork sauce, and finish your meal with his still warm, crunchy almond nougat! For something completely different, try Oinos (69-75 Via della Giudecca, ), where creative chef Valentina offers the best local fish, followed by irresistible desserts.

Compiled by Ellen Grady