Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

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Germany : Hamburg - December 2009

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Hamburg looks especially charming during Advent, thanks to the traditional Christmas street markets. The wa of sizzling Bratwurst (sausage), the tantalising aroma of roasted almonds and the mugs of warming Glühwein (mulled wine), mean people enjoy wandering round the markets even if they’re not shopping. Stuart Forster finds the Christmas spirit catching

Getting around

Hamburg Airport is 9km north-west of the city.

Bus: Coaches to the centre depart every 15 minutes from 6am to 7pm, then at 20-minute intervals until 11pm. Single tickets cost €5
Train: The airport doesn’t have a direct rail connection to the city centre. The nearest station is at Ohlsdorf, served by the S1 and S11 trains and U1 underground line. A single ticket is €2,60 and the journey takes 20 minutes.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main office is at Sankt Pauli Landungsbrücken, between bridges 4 and 5 (tel. , hamburgtourism. de).

NEUSTADT

This month, Neustadt hosts the city’s most famous Christmas market.

Sleep soundly – One of Hamburg’s new design hotels, the stylish, 11- storey SIDE Hotel (49 Drehbahn, 9990, side-hamburg.de, rooms from €153) has spa facilities and a fusion restaurant. It is located close to the Gaensemarkt, which also has a Christmas market.

Culture vultures – Learn more about the city – including how it was once plagued by piracy – at the Hamburg Museum (24 Holstenwall).

Must eat – Try the Hamburger Pfannfisch of salmon and cod, served with potatoes and mustard sauce, at Fischmarkt Restaurant (1 Ditmar- Koel-Strasse, 3809); it’s a house signature.

Shop til you drop – The biggest Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market) in the city sets up stall just in front of the Rathaus (the town hall). Open daily, from 10am to 9pm, it’s good for gifts plus seasonal food and drink. To enjoy the atmosphere at its best, experience the market as dusk settles.

ST GEORG

St Georg is known for its nightlife, cafés, gay bars and avant-garde spirit. The Lange Reihe is the main thoroughfare in a district that has luxury hotels and boutique shops, but retains a gritty urban feel.

Sleep soundly – The grand Hotel Atlantic Kempinski (72-79 An der Alster, tel. , kempinski. atlantic.de, rooms from €142) opened a century ago for first-class liner passengers on their way to the Americas. For spectacular urban skylines, book one of the rooms overlooking the Alster Lake.

Must eat – DaCaio’s (3 Barcastrasse, tel. ) menu encompasses a changing selection of Italian dishes and regional wines. The subtle lighting and quality service mean DaCaio is just as likely to appeal to romantics as it is to business people.

Must drink – The cosy and friendly Bar St Georg (67 Lange Reihe) is a good place for a cocktail or a beer. It’s also well situated for exploring the area.

HAFENCITY

Located next to the 19th-century brick warehouses of the Speicherstadt, the modern HafenCity is changing the city’s skyline. A visit offers a chance to walk along the canals and chart the progress of the Philharmonic Hall, which will dominate the waterfront when it is completed.

Culture vultures – Visit the Philharmonic Hall Pavilion (Magellanterrassen) and stick your head up into the fascinating scale model of the new auditorium.

Must drink – Head to Messmer Momentum (10 Am Kaiserkai), which serves a range of tea and cakes, including some good scones. It’s a comfortable viewing point from which to take in the surrounding area.

ST PAULI

This lively district is dotted with bars, clubs and theatres. If you only have one night out in Hamburg, this is the place to go. The area has its own Christmas market, known as the city’s naughtiest, until 23 December.

Sleep soundly – The inexpensive Backpackers St Pauli (98 Bernstorffstrasse, tel. , backpackers-stpauli.de, beds from €19,50) is well placed, near all of the action.

Must eat – For an interesting array of finger foods – ranging from sushi through to lamb cutlets – give Dips ’n Stix (24-25 Spielbudenplatz, tel. ) a try.

Dance the night away – Docks (19-20 Spielbudenplatz) hosts live gigs as well as club nights.

Shop til you drop – In addition to the usual Yuletide stuff at the Santa Pauli Christmas market (Spielbudenplatz), there’s a live music stage and an erotic-themed tent, playing on the district’s reputation as a former red-light area.

Compiled by Stuart Forster