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France : Marseille - December 2009

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Although the mercury is low, there’s plenty to enjoy outdoors in Marseille this month. Yachts fill the Rade de Marseille on 13 December for the Challenge d’Hiver regatta, while back on dry land the alfresco attractions range from santons (terra-cotta Nativity figurines) on La Canebière, to arts and crafts on trendy Cours Julien and a classy antiques fair in Rue Edmond Rostand. Neville Walker wraps up and takes to the streets

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT

Rain or shine, Marseille’s ancient harbour is the city’s beating heart, from the early morning fish market on Quai des Belges to the theatres, restaurants and cafés that ensure it stays buzzing late into the evening.

Sleep soundly – There’s no lift, but boutique hotel comforts and superb harbour views await those who climb the stairs to the Hôtel Belle-Vue (34 Quai du Port, tel. , hotelbellevuemarseille.com, rooms from €125). It’s tucked above legendary cabaret La Caravelle (see below), on the north side of the Vieux Port.

Culture vultures – Massenet’s opera Cendrillon (Cinderella) conjures up seasonal magic at the Opéra de Marseille (2 Rue Molière), with performances from 23-31 December.

Must eat – Provençal flavours meet exotic influences in dishes such as baked red mullet with citrus and cardamom rice at La Fabrique (3 Place Jules Verne, tel. ), just off the Vieux Port.

Must drink – Tapas and live jazz ensure evenings go with a swing at La Caravelle (34 Quai du Port), which has been pulling in appreciative punters since before World War II.

LA CANEBIÈRE AND PRÉFECTURE

The shopping streets of central Marseille are aglow with festive cheer as the city readies itself for Christmas. From the chain stores along Rue St Ferréol to the more glamorous designer goods in the side streets, or the arty and collectible offerings on Rue Edmond Rostand.

Sleep soundly – If gift buying is your priority, few Marseille hotels are better situated than Hôtel Saint Ferréol (19 Rue Pisançon, tel. , hotel-stferreol.com, rooms from €97). Located in the heart of the shopping district, it has attractive, individually styled and soundproofed rooms.

Culture vultures – Christmas in Marseille is synonymous with santons, the traditional handmade Provençal figurines that have become prized collector’s items. The Foire aux Santons at the top of La Canebière (Allées de Meilhan, until 31 December) is a fixture in the city’s festivities.

Must drink – Take a break over tea or coffee at Torréfaction Noailles (56 La Canebière) then stock up on delicious old-fashioned sweets and petits fours to take home afterwards.

Shop til you drop – Make a beeline for Marseille’s antiques quarter, around Rue Edmond Rostand, for the Journée de Brocante & Antiquités, which is held on 13 December, 7am-6.30pm.

LE PLATEAU

The streets between Place Jean Jaurès and Cours Julien are not only among Marseille’s most bohemian but are also the best for browsing. The small, individual boutiques and cool, affordable cafés and restaurants are full of offbeat charm.

Culture vultures – Celebrate the 120th anniversary of the birth of artist and film-maker Jean Cocteau with a visit to the exhibition Jean Cocteau et la Méditerranée at the Palais des Arts (1 Place Carli). The show has 120 of Cocteau’s works in a variety of media, from drawings and paintings to ceramics and tapestries.

Must eat – Keep out the winter chill with hearty Lyonnais classics such as andouillette (smoked tripe sausage) or confit of duck, in the very cosy, classically French surroundings of Le Tire-Bouchon (11 Cours Julien, tel. ).

Shop til you drop – Browse for inexpensive clothes from local designers at Tata Zize (29 Rue Bussy l’Indien, tel. ). And don’t miss the Grand Marché de Noël des Créateurs (Cours Julien) from 10am-6pm, 18-20 December. There you will find everything from painting and sculpture to lighting and jewellery, all for sale.

Compiled by Neville Walker