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Previous issues for Tel Aviv

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Israel : Tel Aviv - December 2009

Country Code: Dial 2 for Israel

Getting around

Ben Gurion International Airport is 20km south-east of Tel Aviv.

Train: There’s a train station outside the terminal. The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and a single ticket costs €2/NIS 12.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre takes about 20 minutes and should cost no more than €17-21/ NIS 100-120.
Tourist information: The main office is at 46 Herbert Samuel Street (tel. , visit-tlv.co.il).

FLORENTIN

What started life as a somewhat seedy neighbourhood has morphed into a hip commercial hub after low house prices attracted up-and-coming artists to set up studios here.

Must eat – Tel Aviv’s more westernised youth hang out at Bugsy (26 Florentin Street, tel. ), a popular American-style café specialising in excellent burgers and shakes, while Beit Lehem (corner of Vital Street and Florentin Street) is the place to fill up on pitta and hummus.

Dance the night away – The big hitter on the club scene is HaOman 17 (88 Abrabanel Street), where resident DJs and locals go for after-hours entertainment. Comfort 13 (13 Comfort Street), is a guerilla-style venue with two dance floors and an ever-changing slew of contemporary art installations.

Shop til you drop – Israeli food is in abundance here. Levinsky market (starting at Haaliya Street) is perhaps Tel Aviv’s finest for artisan specialities. Go there on Fridays when it’s liveliest.

NEVE TZEDEK

Perhaps Tel Aviv’s most stunning quarter, with once-crumbling buildings returned to their former glory. This is a residential hotspot for economising yuppies and celebrated artists alike, where art and partying abound.

Culture vultures – Suzanne Dellal (6 Yehieli Street) is Tel Aviv’s most frequented dance centre and home to the Bat-Sheva dance group. The 19thcentury Chlouche House (32 Shlush Street) boasts Tel Aviv’s best pop-up art installations, and has excellent city views from its roof terrace.

Must eat – If you tire of hummus, head to NG (6 Ehad Ha’am, tel. ), which specialises in meat and, above all, entrecôte. Jacko (2 Herzel Street, tel. ) is the place for fried fish and calamari in a wonderfully atmospheric setting.

SHENKIN

This is Tel Aviv’s unofficial Bauhaus HQ. Somehow avoiding any dramatic refurbs (Tel Aviv is always attempting to modernise), it’s as affluent, charming and leafy as it was a century ago.

Sleep soundly – Dan Panorama (10 Kaufman Street, tel. , danhotels.com, rooms from $223/€150 including breakfast), is one of Tel Aviv’s finest seafront hotels. If you’re happy to look after yourself, the artfully modern Shenkin apartment (Fierberg Street, tel. ), stayin-tel-aviv.com, rental from $130/€87 per night), makes a stylish starting point.

Must eat – For a local, low-key experience, try some falafel at Shuk Betzalel, situated in an alley just off Betzalel Market (King George Street).

Shop til you drop – The Third Eye (7 Shenkin Street) is a famous purveyor of Asian-influenced scarves and souvenirs, largely imported but integral to the Israeli look. Fashion aficionados head to the boutique of Daniella Lehavi (35 Shenkin Street), famous for her leather goods.

GAN HAHASHMAL QUARTER

This former red light district is comparable to Tel Aviv’s current cool quarter Jaffa, except largely undiscovered by tourists. Head here to sample the small, budget boutiques that have turned Tel Aviv’s largely traditional retail scene on its head.

Must drink – Levontin 7 (7 Levontin Street) is one of the city’s coolest bars, where eclectic music plays alongside equally eclectic drinks.

Dance the night away – DIVA (72 HaRakevet) draws a heady mix of gay, straight and old patrons and never seems to shut. Pricey drinks, but the place for floorfilling tunes.

Shop til you drop – Kisim (8 HaHashmal Street) sells leather on a smaller scale, popular with both yuppies and hipsters alike. Equally good are Helena Blaunstein’s designs, all handmade by the owner at Frau Blau (8 HaHashmal Street).

Compiled by David Kaufman