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Germany : Hamburg - January 2010

Country Code: Dial for Germany

Hamburg’s weather is changeable during March. No matter – the city’s numerous galleries and museums are ideal for visiting during inclement moments, while on fine days you can enjoy the budding greenery of its parks. Stuart Forster goes out dressed for all weather

Getting around

Hamburg Airport is 9km north-west of the city.

Bus: Coaches to the centre depart every 15 minutes from 6am to 7pm, then at 20-minute intervals until 11pm. Single tickets cost €5
Train: The airport doesn’t have a direct rail connection to the city centre. The nearest station is at Ohlsdorf, served by the S1 and S11 trains and U1 underground line. A single ticket is €2,60 and the journey takes 20 minutes.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs about €16.
Tourist information: The main office is at Sankt Pauli Landungsbrücken, between bridges 4 and 5 (tel. , hamburgtourism. de).

ALTSTADT

The centrally located Altstadt district is a must for shoppers and features architecture from the past 150 years. Fans of early 20th-century design will appreciate Mönckebergstrasse’s façades, while those after retail therapy will find plenty to keep them occupied.

Sleep soundly – Located close to the city’s luxurious shops, try the modern, 241-room Sofitel Hamburg (40 Alter Wall, 9500, accorhotels.com from €135). The Terasse Restaurant is good for lunch, overlooking one of Hamburg’s waterways.

Culture vultures – Take a look at the light-filled atrium of the Europa-Passage (40a Ballindamm). Designed by Bothe, Richter and Teherani, the elegantly arched mall hosts 120 shops and has a bright, contemporary feel.

Must eat – North German-style restaurant Friesenkeller (7 Jungfernstieg, tel. ) serves regional speciality Labskaus (stew with a little bit of everything), along with a range of traditional fish dishes – try aal grün (eel cooked in herbs and white wine) or Hamburger Pannfisch (fish fillets served in mustard sauce).

Shop til you drop – After exploring Mönckebergstrasse, head to the designer stores of upmarket shopping street Neuer Wall: look out for famous names such as Tiffany & Co (19), Louis Vuitton (37) and Joop (80).

ST PAULI

Lively throughout the year, the Kiez, as locals call this district, is a must for those who want to see Hamburg’s (in)famous nightlife. It’s also becoming known for a number of good restaurants.

Sleep soundly – The Hotel Austria (4 Talstrasse, tel. , hotelaustria-hamburg.de, doubles from €85) is just off the famous Reeperbahn, the city’s red-light district.

Culture vultures – Fifty years on from their arrival in Hamburg, learn about The Beatles’ experiences at Beatlemania (10 Nobistor). The band had residences in some St Pauli clubs between 1960 and 1962.

Must eat – Head to East Restaurant (31 Simon-von-Utrecht Strasse, 9933) for its stylish interior design and meticulous presentation of its food. Dishes range from sashimi to contemporary European offerings such as braised cheek of veal.

Must drink – For a not-so-quiet drink in a landmark St Pauli bar, head to the Hans Albers Eck (20 Hans-Albers-Platz).

Dance the night away – Molotow (5 Spielbudenplatz) is a club that hosts live gigs and has a cool, come-as-you-are, alternative feel. The music continues to play into the small hours.

SCHANZENVIERTEL

Located across the Heiligengeistfeld from St Pauli, this Hamburg district has a multicultural feel and hosts an array of shops run by independent fashion and accessory designers.

Sleep soundly – The Mövenpick Hotel (6 Sternschanze tel. , moevenpick-hamburg.com, doubles from €190) has smart interiors and makes the most of its historic infrastructure. The best views are to be had from the suites in the converted watertower.

Must eat – A hint of Italian influences the contemporary cuisine on the everevolving menu at Restaurant Nil (5 Pferdemarkt, tel. ).

Must drink – Open from early till late, Park Café (1 Susannenstrasse) has a relaxed ambience, ideal for quiet chats.

Shop til you drop – Anna Fuchs (27 Karolinenstrasse) is named after and run by one of the stars of Hamburg’s highly regarded fashion scene.

ALTONA

On Sundays, Altona hosts Hamburg’s weekly fish market. For bargains and an early (or perhaps very late?) beer, this is the place to come.

Must eat – Zum Schellfischposten (62 Carsten-Rehder-Strasse, 2422) is a down-to-earth venue known for its fresh seafood dishes.

Must drink – At the Fischmarkt, bands play live music as stalls serve cold beer and warm coffee.

Shop til you drop – Wander the stalls and vans of the Fischmarkt (held from 7am, or 5am from mid-March). Listening to the traders spin their sales patter is a fascinating distraction from shopping.

Compiled by Stuart Forster