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Russia : Moscow - January 2010

Country Code: Dial + for Russia

An ice rink returns to Red Square for the fourth consecutive year, and there’s no better way to spend a January afternoon in Moscow than doing a spot of figure skating. Except, perhaps, indoors – taking in the ballet exhibition at the new Tretyakov Gallery or sinking vodka shots with the locals at the corner café. Sonya Rinkus heads inside

Getting around

Domodedovo International Airport

Bus: Coaches from Domodedovo station leave every 15 minutes and take 35 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1,15/RUB 40.
Train: Trains leave from Domededovo to Paveletskaya train station every 40 minutes, with the journey taking 40 minutes. Tickets cost €5/RUB 180.
Taxi: A journey to the city centre should cost about €43/RUB 1600. The trip takes around an hour.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 4 Ulitsa Ilyinka (tel. , www.moscow-city.ru).

DOWNTOWN

The area around Red Square doesn’t just have lots of tourist attractions, it’s also the heart of the city, where Muscovites go to shop, eat and be seen.

Culture vultures – Red Square is once again the site of an ice-skating rink this winter. Don’t miss the magical experience of skating on 850 years of history.

Must eat – What global financial crisis? Nobu (20 Bolshaya Dmitrovka Ulitsa, ), part of the international sushi chain co-owned by Robert De Niro, opened in April for the Russian glitterati, who don’t wince at spending 3,000 rubles (€70) on an entrée.

Dance the night away – Following the trend for arty bohemian bars, Masterskaya (3 Teatralny Proyezd) stands apart for its near-daily drama performances and interesting history. It used to be a banya (bath house).

Shop til you drop – An upscale alternative to the souvenir market, Moskovsky Khudozhnik (12 Petrovka Ulitsa) has the essentials of Russian art, from Gzhel porcelain to amber jewellery.

NEW ARBAT

The flashy main street was cleansed of its casinos following a government crackdown, but opportunities for revelry still remain.

Sleep soundly – With a dearth of affordable accommodation in Moscow, clean and friendly Hostel New Arbat (20 Novy Arbat Ulitsa, , hostelnewarbat.ru, beds from 640 rubles/€14) is about as good as you can get for your ruble.

Must eat – The delights of Georgian food are largely unknown in the Western world – so don’t miss your chance to find a new favourite cuisine at Dioskuriya (2 Merzlyakovsky Pereulok, ).

Must drink – It doesn’t get much more authentic than Ryumochnaya (22/2 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa), a hole-inthe- wall, Soviet-style cafe that is perfect for slugging vodka with the locals. In contrast, Vision cocktail bar (11 Novy Arbat Ulitsa) epitomises 21st-century excess.

YAKIMANKA

This historic south-western district includes the sprawling Gorky Park and the old and new Tretyakov galleries, Russia’s premier collections of domestic art.

Culture vultures – The new Tretyakov Gallery (10 Krymsky Val, tretyakov gallery.ru) houses masterpieces of Russian art from the start of the 20thcentury onwards. Until 31 January, you can catch an exhibition marking the centenary of Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes.

Must eat – There is such thing as real Mexican in Moscow! The delightfully atmospheric Pancho Villa (52 Bolshaya Yakimanka, ) serves up dripping burritos and killer margaritas to gringos.

Dance the night away – DJ lounge Mio (1 Kaluzhskaya Ploshchad) has a tendency to keep the party going all night long – which is just fine, because it serves a hearty Russian breakfast from 4am.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on Soviet chocolate at the Krasny Oktyabr, or Red October, confectionery store (17 Shabolovka Ulitsa). Don’t miss its iconic treat, the Alyonka chocolate bar.

TSVETNOY BULVAR

Enjoy a stroll down “Flower Boulevard”, the site of a 19th-century flower market, which is now graced by clown sculptures in homage to the nearby circus.

Culture vultures – Operating since 1880, the popular Old Moscow Circus (13 Tsvetnoy Bulvar, ) continues to offer an unforgettable spectacle of bears, clowns and acrobats.

Must drink – The only place serving tapas in Moscow, Spanish restaurant Tapa de Comida (20/2 Trubnaya Ulitsa) is now also gaining popularity as a sports bar. Enjoy a glass or two of sangria while you watch the game.

Dance the night away – On the offchance that you brought an instrument with you to Moscow, you will probably find a jam session you can participate in at BB King (4/2 Sadovaya Samotechnaya Ulitsa). It’s the city’s leading venue for live rhythm and blues.

Compiled by Sonya Rinkus