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Germany : Stuttgart - January 2010

Country Code: Dial for Germany

Don’t be fooled by Stuttgart’s parkland setting (wedged between two verdant valleys) or its cultural draws, such as the State Opera and Philharmonic Orchestra (both in the highest echelons of the arts), or the fact that it’s Germany’s largest wine-growing city. That’s because the capital of Baden-Württemberg is an unlikely industrial powerhouse, home to such iconic brands as Porsche, Mercedes-Benz, Zeiss and Bosch. Farhad Heydari gets under its skin

Getting around

STR

Bus: The eXpresso bus provides a direct service to the city centre from 5.20am to 10.44pm. The journey takes about 40 minutes and costs €6,15.
Train: S-Bahn trains leave Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof every 10 or 20 minutes from 4.55am to 12.25am. The journey to the airport takes 27 minutes and costs €3,10.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre costs around €30 and takes about 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The central tourist office is at 1a Königstrasse ( 22280, stuttgart-tourist.de).

MITTE

With its regal landscaped gardens, its bevy of cultural attractions, and its buzzy after-dark atmosphere, the city centre is alive with energy 24/7.

Sleep soundly – Despite an unremarkable exterior, the Hotel Am Schlossgarten, which takes its name from the adjacent gardens, is a five-star standout with 116 rooms.

Culture vultures – At the Württembergisches Landesmuseum (6 Schillerplatz, tel. ), a stunning 16th-century renaissance structure, you can trace the Swabian contribution to the arts from the Stone Age to today. By contrast, the work of German Expressionists and those of the Bauhaus school and Blue Rider group form the lion’s share of the exhibits at the Staatsgalerie or State Gallery of Stuttgart (30-32 Konrad-Adenauer- Strasse, tel. ). It’s a must for any lover of Paul Klee’s paintings.

Must eat – The dimly lit and atmospheric Floating Market (14 Theodor-Heuss-Strasse, tel. ) excels at pan-Asian – but especially Thai – cuisine. For something more upmarket, head south to Wielandshöhe (71 Alte Weinsteige, tel. ), a celebrated eco-conscious eatery by star chef Vincent Klink. Ingredients are free of chemical additives or pesticides and the resulting fare is peerless.

Dance the night away – Join local scenesters on Fridays and Saturdays at Amici (2 Lautenschlagerstrasse, tel. ), a restaurant with a high-octane lounge-cum-club on the first floor. Over at the AER Club (10 Büchsenstrasse, 1 ), local beautiful people kick up their heels beneath a gallery of lights.

ZUFFENHAUSEN

Anchored by Porscheplatz, this suburb is synonymous with the independent sports-car manufacturer.

Culture vultures – No self-respecting petrol head would be forgiven for missing a pilgrimage to the stunning new Porsche Museum (1 Porscheplatz, ). Home to no fewer than 80 vintage vehicles, the €89m edifice was designed by the Viennese firm, Delugan Meissl.

Must eat – With two restaurants on site, visitors to the Porsche Museum need not brave the elements in search of quality rations. The Boxenstopp restaurant features salads, sandwiches, pizzas and pastas. While at fine-dining restaurant Christophorus – where you’ll mix with Porsche executives – you can enjoy dishes such as turbot on chanterelles with potato purée and lime sauce, and braised roast lamb with artichoke and crispy hash browns, accompanied by superlative local wines.

CALWERSTRASSE

As an antidote to the homogenous highstreet feel of nearby Königstrasse, make for this artisanal quarter – it’s a local jewel.

Sleep soundly – The cheap and cheerful Hotel Wartburg (49 Langestrasse, 20450) has fuss-free rooms with free WLAN internet, starting at €88.

Must eat – A local institution, the lively Calwer Eck Bräu (31 Calwerstrasse, ) is one of two stellar microbreweries in the neighbourhood, the other being TÜ8 (8 Tübingestrasse, tel. ). For something a tad more healthy, head to Dean & David (60 Calwerstrasse, ), a burgeoning local chain serving healthy salads and sandwiches. Or for something refined, make for da Maurizio (62 Calwerstrasse, tel. ), a modernist Italian trading in fresh seasonal ingredients.

Shop til you drop – At the Calwer Passage, an upmarket chrome-and-glass arcade created in the 70s to mimic Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, you can find everything from pipe and cigar shops to women’s retailer Beate Mössinger and luxury Spanish handbag purveyor Loewe.



Compiled by Farhad Heydari

Previous issues for Stuttgart
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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