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Spain : Barcelona - February 2010

Country Code: Dial for Spain

As if the Catalans need an excuse to party, February brings Carnival (Carnestoltes) before Lent. On a more serious note, DocsBarcelona, the respected international documentary film festival, provides an edifying glimpse of real life. Judy Thomson attempts to find the best of both worlds

Getting around

El Prat

Bus: The nearest airport is El Prat Airport, about 12km from the city.

LA RAMBLA

Off-season is the perfect time for strolling down this tree-lined boulevard leading to the port, so you can enjoy its colourful flora and fauna and not miss the Miró mosaic under your feet.

Sleep soundly – A classic 19th-century hotel has recently morphed into the Internacional Cool Local Hotel (78-80 La Rambla, tel. , hotelhusainternacional.com, rooms from €88), with chic minimalism in the rooms, a chill-out roof terrace and an unbeatable view of the Liceu opera house and La Rambla.

Culture vultures – The largest of the city’s 40 food markets, La Boqueria (89 La Rambla) is a feast for the senses – and more vibrant than ever with the stall holders dressed up for Carnival. Stock up your larder and get great gift ideas from the endless range of cured hams, olive oil, wine, dried fruits, nuts and handmade chocolates. Then, to feed your other senses, visit Arts Santa Mònica (7 La Rambla). This 17th-century convent that’s born again as a cutting-edge arts centre always has something stimulating to see.

Must eat – Avoid the tourist traps selling ready-made paella and nip along a side street into the plazas of the Gothic quarter for a better selection. Taller de Tapas (9 Plaza Sant Josep Oriol, tel. ) has an extensive range of succulent tapas you can sit down to, from grilled razor clams to chickpeas sautéed with squid, while Taxidermista (8 Plaza Reial, tel. ) gives a new spin to Catalan dishes in stylish surroundings in this majestic square.

Must drink – Start from the top with a coffee at legendary Café Zurich (1 Plaza Catalunya), where clients have been people-watching for over 80 years, then wind up treating yourself to a caña (draught beer) at La Cava Universal (4 Plaza del Portal de la Pau), which is a suntrap, even in February.

Dance the night away – At Moog (3 Arc del Teatre) there’s techno and house daily from midnight to 5am, while nearby BLVD Boulevard Culture Club (27 La Rambla) is a popular club with a range of dance music in different spaces.

GRÀCIA

Until the late 19th century, this charming neighbourhood was a separate village. Now its narrow streets are brimming with boutiques and buzzing at night with a cool, young crowd.

Culture vultures – Gràcia is home to a lesser-known Gaudí house, the brightlytiled Casa Vicens (24 Carrer de les Carolines), as well as one of his best known creations – the Park Güell. And don’t forget to catch one of the films from the DocsBarcelona festival (2-7 February, docsbarcelona.com) at arthouse Cines Verdi (32 Calle Verdi).

Must eat – Good-value food and atmosphere at Roure (51 Riera San Miquel, tel. ) – don’t miss their midday paella on Thursdays. If you’re on expenses, guzzle seafood at King Juan Carlos’ favourite, Botafumeiro (81 Gran de Gràcia, tel. ).

Must drink – Pretty squares such as the Virreina or Rius i Taulat have attractive terrace cafés, like local favourite Café del Sol (16 Plaza del Sol).

Shop til you drop – Find one-off original designs for women at El Piano Tina Garcia (20 Calle Verdi) and comfortable style in luscious colours at Instinto (17 Astúries).

SITGES

An easy 40-minute train ride away, this picturesque whitewashed resort with a cosmopolitan atmosphere makes a refreshing day trip or weekend seaside break.

Sleep soundly – An exquisite modernista villa with only 11 rooms set in a garden, El Xalet (35 Carrer Illa de Cuba, tel. , elxalet.com, rooms from €60) is unbeatable value.

Culture vultures – Possibly the gay mecca of the Med, Rua de la Disbauxa is wild during Carnival. On 14 February, gay and straight revellers alike let their hair down at the Debauchery parade.

Must eat – Lunch overlooking the sea on the terrace of family-run hotel La Santa Maria (52 Passeig de la Ribera, tel. ) is an essential stop. Try Sitges’ own salad, xató – a delicious mix of escarole and salt cod in a unique nutty sauce.

Compiled by Judy Thomson