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Italy : Catania - February 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Colourful, vibrant Catania celebrates her patron saint, Agatha, with processions and firework displays in February. Acireale and Sciacca are the hot spots for Carnival, while Sicily’s early spring is welcomed to the tune of folk music and dancing at the Almond Blossom Festival in Agrigento. Ellen Grady joins the fun

Getting around

Fontanarossa Airport

Bus: The Alibus shuttle service runs between the airport and the central train station. It’s a 15-minute journey, with buses running from 5am to midnight. Other services are available to all major Sicilian destinations, including Taormina and Palermo. The bus journey into Catania costs €2.
Taxi: Taxis are also available and the journey into Catania shouldn’t cost more than €30. All major car-hire companies are represented at the airport.
Tourist information: The main tourist information office is at 10 Via Cimarosa (, www.turismo.catania.it)

THE CENTRE

Catania’s handsome Cathedral Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, will be packed with worshippers from 3-5 February for the festivities in honour of St Agatha, martyred at the age of 13 in AD 251 after undergoing horrifying tortures. One of the most significant and emotional religious celebrations in the world, thousands of white-robed divoti carrying great wax candles follow their much-loved patron saint in a 24-hour procession through the streets of the city.

Sleep soundly – Follow the celebrations from the luxurious Una Hotel Palace (218 Via Etnea, , unahotels.it, doubles from €102, special offers for St Agatha’s feast), which has a marvellous penthouse restaurant. The executive rooms have private dining rooms and windows overlooking the route of the procession.

Culture vultures – The sumptuous Diocese Museum (Piazza Duomo Via Etnea) next to the Cathedral displays paintings, silverware and memorabilia of St Agatha.

Shop til you drop – You’ll find dainty St Agatha’s olives made with pistachio marzipan, and pastries called St Agatha’s breasts, at Nonna Vincenza (7 Piazza San Placido). These are inspired by the olive tree that sprang up on the spot where she stopped to fasten her sandal on her way to prison, and the fact her breasts were torn off during the martyrdom.

ACIREALE

A stone’s throw to the north of Catania, on a cliff at the foot of Mount Etna (Europe’s largest active volcano) surrounded by lemon groves, friendly Acireale is a great place to enjoy this month’s Carnival (see carnevaleacireale. com for specific dates), with parades of enormous satirical floats.

Sleep soundly – To get the most out of the Acireale Carnival experience, you should stay with a family. A good choice is the central Palazzo Leonardi (241 Corso Savoia, tel. , palazzoleonardi.it, doubles from €70), where they’ll regale you with information over a wonderful Sicilian breakfast. All rooms have private bathrooms, and there’s a lovely garden.

Shop til you drop – Very special Carnival confectionery can be found at Condorelli (26 Via Scionti).

MONTALLEGRO

Bus your way down to Montallegro, a peaceful country village close to the sea. With lovely surroundings, a good hotel and the best restaurant in Sicily, it’s an ideal strategic base for getting your energy back while checking out the action in nearby Agrigento, with its magnificent Doric temples, and the ancient fishing village of Sciacca.

Sleep soundly – There are just seven comfy rooms at the Relais Briuccia (1 Via Trieste, , relaisbriuccia.it, doubles from €90), a beautifully restored old house, but they all have a Jacuzzi, and if you ask for the suite you’ll have a private terrace offering stupendous views.

Culture vultures – Hop over to Agrigento to welcome spring at the Almond Blossom Festival (1-7 Feb), featuring music and dancers from all over the world and ending with a torch-lit Friendship Procession along the UNESCO World Heritage Site Valley of the Temples. And don’t miss Sciacca, where they’ll be celebrating the 110th edition of their quirky Carnival (11-26 Feb). It’s a mad party, during which Carnival King Peppe Nappa hands out wine and grilled sausages to the revellers in fancy dress. He goes out with a bang – the fireworks on the last day are worth the trip!

Must eat – Capitolo Primo is the restaurant of the Relais mentioned above. This is where young Damiano Ferrara, Sicily’s most talented chef, unleashes his inventiveness, taking full advantage of the fresh local produce to create dishes to tickle your tastebuds and delight the eye. Try the bomba, a feather-light pastry ball with prawn stuffing, served with pistachio-toasted mackerel fillet, candied cherry tomatoes and lemon parfait.

Shop til you drop – For good local wines try Rizzuto Guccione (Contrada Piconello) – the syrah is simply superb, and they will ship.

Compiled by Ellen Grady