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Poland : Krakow - February 2010

Country Code: Dial for Poland

After a cold Polish winter, March brings a welcome thaw to Krakow. Visitors will still find it nippy, however, so staying inside is best – and thankfully, there’s plenty going on indoors, including a remarkable exhibition at the Jewish Museum: In the Beginning, God Created the Heavens and the Earth. Michelle Smith finds things to do while waiting for the city to warm up

Getting around

Balice Airport

Bus: Radtur runs regular buses into the city centre. A single journey costs about €1,90/PLN 7 and takes 30 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi costs around €13/PLN 50 and takes about 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office is at 1 Rynek Główny (tel. , krakow.pl). Orbis (41 Rynek Główny) also provides lots of useful information.

OLD TOWN AND RYNEK

The heart of the city bustles with energy and brims with confidence. It’s also overflowing with wonderful cafés, museums and hotels.

Sleep soundly – The ultra-sleek Andel’s Hotel (3 Ulica Pawia, tel. , andelscracow.com, rooms from €70/ PLN 293) is mere metres from the main train station and bursts with colour and warmth. Or for those who can splash out, the Art Hotel Niebieski (3 Ulica Flisacka, tel. , niebieski.com.pl, rooms from €102/PLN 424) is one of the best addresses in town, with a riverside location and sweeping entrance hall.

Must eat – Good breakfasts are hard to find in Krakow, but Metropolitan (3 Ulica Sławkowska, tel. ) offers British fry-ups, American bacon-and-eggs and vaguely Canadian pancakes with maple syrup. And for evening dining, head to The Olive (7 Ulica Powisle, in the Sheraton Hotel, tel. ), which serves excellent fusion cuisine under a star-filled glass roof.

Must drink – Stalowe Magnolie (15 Ulica Sw. Jana) resembles a Moulin Rouge-like French boudoir, while jazz lovers must visit Harris Piano Jazz Bar (28 Rynek Główny). And if you don’t have time to visit the Wieliczka Salt Mine located just outside the city, drown your sorrows at Salt & Co (17 Ulica Straszewskiego), with a sparkling wall made of salt from the famous mine.

Dance the night away – Set in an atmospheric medieval cavern, Cien (courtyard of 15 Ulica Sw. Jana) attracts the beautiful people, but for something much more hardcore, check out Krzysztofory (2 Ulica Szczepanska), where items of clothing come off as the club heats up.

Shop til you drop – Krakow’s best buys are to be had in the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) in the Rynek square, while amber seekers flock to Boruni Amber Inspirations (42 Ulica Florianska, 22 Ulica Kanonicza and 17 Ulica Straszewskiego) for amber-infused silver rings, brooches, necklaces, earrings, letter-openers and snuff boxes.

JEWISH KRAKOW – KAZIMIERZ

Despite its tragic WWII history, the ‘other side of the river’ has thrown off its dark mantle and is now a fun, fresh and arty district (with an edge). Kazimierz is definitely worth exploring, and is a fantastic base for those who wish to avoid the centre and see another side to this exciting city.

Sleep soundly – Those on a budget will love Wrona (7 Ulica Piwna, tel. , noclegkrakow.pl, rooms from €33/ PLN 137), a cheerful, 14-room guesthouse with huge windows and a river view. Alternatively, ApartHotel Spatz (11 Ulica Miodowa, tel. , spatz.pl, rooms from €72/PLN 301) is a perfect example of Kazimierz’s rebirth. Established in 1922, the hotel flourished until WWII. Abandoned for 50 years, it’s recently been faithfully and beautifully restored – and is bustling with new business.

Culture vultures – The Galicia Jewish Museum (18 Ulica Dajwór) is a must for its exhibition, In the Beginning, God Created the Heavens and the Earth, running in March. Artist Johannes Senf has typically analysed and compared signs used in abstract communication systems, and this latest work is inspired by the language of Hebrew - one of the oldest alphabets in the world.

Must eat – The Mediterranean-inspired Paroles Paroles (4 Plac Wolnica, ) brings a sunshine-and-tapas feel to Krakow, bursting with delights such as serrano ham, manchego cheese and tiger prawns. Those eager to try traditional Jewish cuisine, meanwhile, should drop into Arka Noego (2 Ulica Szeroka, tel. ), which is highly recommended for its selection of kosher products, including alcohol.

Must drink – The beautiful people meet at Le Scandale (9 Plac Nowy) for cocktails and mood lighting – so dress up! Or warm up at Pasieka (25 Ulica Miodowa), a pub on Honey Street which specialises in honey-based liqueurs and hot tea with krupnik (a honey spirit infused with delicate herbs).

Compiled by Michelle Smith

Previous issues for Krakow

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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