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France : Marseille - February 2010

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In February – which takes its name from the Latin verb ‘februare’, to purify – where better to cleanse the soul than Marseille? As the terraces start to fill with the peoplewatching population, Molly Simpson sticks on her shades and sets out in search of some of the more sun-drenched spots to while away an hour or two…

Getting around

Marseille-Provence

Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).

VIEUX PORT

Against a panoramic backdrop and adorned with spectacular yachts and crumbling fishing boats, Marseille’s harbour beautifully portrays its rich diversity of cultures and communities. Surrounded by cafés and restaurants both chic and sultry, this vibrant setting is a gateway – to the atmospheric quarters of Le Panier on the north side, and the boulevard of La Canebière that separates the convivial Belsunce quarter from the designer shopping streets to the south.

Sleep soundly – Steeped in history, the Grand Tonic (43 Quai des Belges, tel. ), tonichotel.com, rooms from €85) is housed in a building from the early 1900s. But it offers contemporary style and modern comforts, including large flatscreen TVs and hydro-massage bathtubs.

Culture vultures – Musée d’Archéologie Méditerranéenne (2 Rue de la Charité) boasts a number of outstanding artefacts, including some beautiful pottery and glassware. The museum’s Egyptian collection is particularly notable.

Must eat – La Cuisine au Beurre (72 Quai du Port, tel. ) is the perfect place to people-watch with a plate of chunky chips and a bowl of steaming mussels. La Table de l’Olivier (56 Rue Mazenod, tel. ), meanwhile, serves up an explosion of east-meets-west flavours using local produce in sophisticated surroundings.

Dance the night away – Le Crystal (148 Quai du Port) is a kitsch setting serving equally chintzy cocktails that’ll get you in the mood for late-night revelling, and Trolleybus (24 Quai Rive Neuve) draws the city’s in-crowd with acid jazz and hip-hop until the early hours.

CARRY-LE-ROUET

A train or car ride of less than 30 minutes will find you in Carry-le-Rouet. This seaside town is the beginning of the lesser-known ‘La Côte Bleue’, offering pine forests bordering the sea that are ideal for coastal walks and laid-back living. Visit this quaint resort and imagine you are one of the town’s more famous residents, Nina Simone, who lived here until her death in 2003.

Sleep soundly – Should relaxation be on the agenda then family-run B&B Villa L’Oursinade (25 Allée de la Calanque, , provence-en-famille. com, rooms from €65) can provide the perfect escape, with its calm and picturesque setting overlooking the Mediterranean.

Must eat – Le Galion (3 Quai Prof Emile Vayssière, tel. ) provides diners with port-side views while they wash down simple, freshly caught seafood with the finest local wine. And La Brise (Quai Emile Vayssière, tel, ), perched on the hill, is perfect for slurping bouillabaisse. Panoramic views, rattan chairs and sublime service justify the price.

Dance the night away – Make a night of it at Casino Barrière (Avenue Aristide Briand) – if dinner and a dabble on the poker tables or slot machines doesn’t suit, catch a cabaret show instead.

LE PLATEAU

The iconoclast will adore this charming ‘anything goes’ district, where Cours Julien and Place Jean-Jaurès offer boutique and trendy cafés that make up the commonly known ‘Le Plateau’. The arty, bohemian vibe creates the perfect setting for a day spent shopping or musing at the myriad galleries and workshops.

Culture vultures – Those who share a passion for canvasses and sculptures will adore the convivial surroundings of gallery Galerie Anna Tschopp (197 Rue Paradis).

Must drink – L’Enoteka (28 Boulevard Notre Dame) is a place to linger – it offers over 70 different wines served by the glass, along with a tasty plate of charcuterie or cheese.

Shop til you drop – Oogie (55, Cours Julien), is a 400m2 collection of services, aptly named a ‘lifestore’. Comprising a hair studio, restaurant, café, bookstore, clothing stores and a gallery – the list goes on – this is one-stop shopping and dining at its quirkiest and most fun.

Compiled by Molly Simpson