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Italy : Milan - February 2010

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There’s plenty to see and do in Milan this month. If you’re in town on 16 February don’t miss the annual Carnevale Ambrosiano – a huge street festival in honour of the city’s patron saint, Ambrogio, when most of the centro is taken up with floats and parades. Earlier on, you can still catch the sales (generally till the second week of February), so make sure you leave room in your suitcase for those extra purchases. Matt Barker tries to pick up a bargain

Getting around

The nearest airport is Malpensa, 48km from the city centre.

Bus: A shuttle-bus runs from the airport to Centrale station. The 50-minute journey costs €4,50, with buses leaving every 20 minutes between 4.30am and 12.15am.
Train: The Malpensa Express runs from the airport to central Milan, taking around 40 minutes and costing €11.
Taxi: A taxi into central Milan takes about an hour and costs €75.
Tourist information: The main office is at 19a Piazza Duomo ( , milanoinfo.eu).

NAVIGLI AND PORTA TICINESE

Milan’s canal district is a hive of busy bars and restaurants, with plenty of small, independent shops to explore.

Sleep soundly – If you’re going to be basing yourself in the area, try the Hotel Milano Corso Genova (20 Via Conca del Naviglio, , hotelmilanocorsogenova.it, rooms from €90). Bright, modish and nicely understated, go for one of the Superior Rooms, which are huge.

Culture vultures – Dating from the 5th century, the San Lorenzo Maggiore church (Corso di Porta Ticinese) includes 16 Roman columns and the beautiful chapel of St Aquilino.

Must eat – Offering rustic charm in the heart of the city, Al Pont de Ferr (55 Ripa di Porta Ticinese, ) is a proud flag-waver for northern Italian flavours; try the oven-roasted rabbit with potatoes. The Osteria dei Binari (1 Via Tortona, , closed Sun) is another big favourite with locals, who are tempted by hearty Lombardian fare such as costoletta meat cutlet and excellent cheesecake.

Shop til you drop – The shelves of La Vineria (4 Via Casale, closed Sun and Mon morning) are groaning under the weight of wine bottles and olive oil. Or for vintage fashions, try Renuns-Strascé (21 Ripa di Porta Ticinese), which sells clothes and accessories dating from the 1940s to the 1970s.

QUADRILATERO D’ORO

Small but perfectly formed, head to this celebrated cluster of shopping streets, with most of the action along Via della Spiga and Via Montenapoleone.

Must drink – Caffè Cova (8 Via Montenapoleone) is the pit-stop of choice for discerning fashionistas, though mere mortals may find its po-faced chicness a tad ridiculous. For a more traditionally Milanese take on café culture, visit Pasticceria Sant’ Ambroeus (7 Corso Matteotti) for a glass of red wine and a slice of cake.

Shop til you drop – Every big-name Italian label has a flagship here, from Versace (14 Via Sant’Andrea) to Roberto Cavalli (42 Via della Spiga) and many more, including the new bespoke store from Prada (3 Corso Venezia).

SEMPIONE

The city’s green heart, Parco Sempione, is the backdrop for a constant display of Milanese daily life.

Culture vultures – The mean and moody looking Castello Sforzesco (Piazza Castello) is home to a number of museums, including the Museum of Ancient Art, the Collection of Applied Arts and the Museum of Musical Instruments.

Must eat – Still one of the city’s best restaurants, L’Altra Pharmacia (3 Via Rosmini, tel. , closed Sun) is always a popular spot; it might be an idea to book in advance. Stick to the classics and order risotto alla Milanese. Fabbrica (2 Viale Pasubio, tel. ), meanwhile, is a well-loved pizzeria. The house speciality is calzone peppina, made with fresh mozzarella and prosciutto.

Must drink – Overlooking the park, Living (2 Piazza Sempione) is a swanky lounge affair, while Freak (16 Via Agostino Bertani) is a lively bar (and a decent spot to eat), with late hours and a hip clientele.

MAGENTA

One of the centro’s main thoroughfares, Magenta is an elegant parade of shops and bars. Head here for an authentic Milanese afternoon.

Culture vultures – The Teatro Litta (24 Corso Magenta) is worth a visit, even if you don’t intend to watch anything. A baroque jewel, it’s a classic piece of Lombard architecture – with a great bar.

Must drink – The Colonial Cafe (85 Corso Magenta) is a great place for a leisurely coffee during the day, or a buzzy cocktail bar in the evenings. Biffi (87 Corso Magenta) is one of the city’s grand cafés, and an excellent spot for afternoon tea.

Compiled by Matt Barker