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France : Nice - February 2010

Country Code: Dial for France

It’s hard to escape the festivities when the French Riviera’s most prolific Carnival hits the streets on 12 February. This fortnight of flower parades, soirées and concerts attracts over a million spectators to party, until it draws to a close as the papier mâché giants from the processions dance their way to the beach and are ceremonially burnt in a flurry of fireworks on the 28. Nelly Brown, well-known party pooper, goes in search of some downtime options

Getting around

Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is 7km west of the city centre.

Bus: The No.99 departs for Gare Routière, the central bus station just outside the old town, every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €4 and the journey takes about 30 minutes.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs around €30.
Tourist information: The main office is at 5 Promenade des Anglais (tel. , nicetourisme.biz).

PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS

The charismatic heart of the city combines the glitzy façade of the Promenade – with its belle époque buildings lining the pebbled waterfront – and the old town, with its narrow and rambling streets.

Culture vultures – Wander your way through the cool alleys of the old town, constructed during the 17th and 18th centuries. In the Musée des Beaux Arts (33 Avenue des Baumettes), sculptures by Rodin and Degas vie for attention with paintings by Van Gogh and Monet.

Must eat – Snug and Cellar (22 Rue Droite, tel. ) is Nice’s answer to the gastro pub, serving up delicious dishes such as scallops on a bed of puréed chickpeas and medallions of prime veal with a twist of local ratatouille.

Dance the night away – Le Ghost (3 Rue Barillerie) is the place to go for disco, electro and soul – hit this happily raucous haunt a block back from the Cours Saleya. Knock-out cocktails cost about €10 a throw.

Shop til you drop – Maison Auer (7 Rue St François de Paule) is the spot to scoop up holiday gifts. And don’t worry about packing them into your luggage – the store offers international delivery. Stock up on Provençal truffles, as well as wine, chocolate and cheese infused by the fragrant tuber, at Chef Bruno Clément’s specialist shop, Terres de Truffes (11 Rue Saint François de Paule).

EZE VILLAGE

The perfect retreat from the madding Carnival crowds is the medieval village of Eze. Simply hop on the 112 bus (every 20 minutes from Nice’s Gare Routiere) to unwind in historic natural surrounds overlooking the Mediterranean sea.

Sleep soundly – The rooms at Château Eza (Rue de la Pise, tel. , chateaueza.com, from €180) are well worth splashing out on, not only for the magnificent panoramic views but also for the splendour of staying in a 400-year-old fairytale castle.

Culture vultures – The patrimony of this village is so vast that the list is endless. The good news is that everything can be visited simply by stumbling upon it. Sitting amongst the Jardin Exotique, for example, are the remains of a fortress steeped in history – visit the pictorial account of the castle’s life and fate.

Must eat – La Bergerie (3835 Avenue Diables Bleus, tel. ) serves up its famous gigot (leg of lamb slowly braised in the open wood fire) in a handsome vaulted restaurant.

Shop til you drop – Visit the perfume ‘laboratory’ Fragonard (Eze-village, fragonard.com) for signature perfumes as well as soaps, lotions, cosmetics and antique jewellery, and linens, glass and wicker for the home.

Compiled by Nelly Brown

Previous issues for Nice

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

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