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Spain : Seville - February 2010

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Seville is one of Spain’s most beautiful cities. Its Moorish architecture is a sumptuous interplay of exotic colours and design, while the culture and lifestyle is vibrant and sophisticated, with superb restaurants, bars, shops and sights. This month’s cooler weather makes it the ideal place for strolling, so Josephine Quintero steps out

Getting around

Seville San Pablo Airport

Bus: Buses leave every half hour on weekdays and every hour at weekends. They start at about 6am and finish around 11pm. Tickets cost €2 and the journey takes about 25 minutes.
Taxi: A journey from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and costs approximately €20.
Tourist information: The main tourist offices can be found at 28 Calle Arjona (tel. ) and 19 Plaza de San Francisco (tel. , www.turismo.sevilla.org).

EL ARENAL

El Arenal has carafe-loads of atmosphere, with its web of narrow backstreets and lovely city park.

Sleep soundly – Superb facilities include in-room laptops at historic Petit Palace Marqués Santa Ana (9-11 Calle Jimios, tel. , hthoteles.com, rooms from €90).

Culture vultures – Lush with foliage, flowers and lofty trees, the Maria Luisa Park also boasts three museums, a theatre and some stunning art deco-cum-mudejar architecture.

Must eat – Classy and innovative Italian cuisine is on the menu at Porta Rossa (20 Calle Pastor y Landero, tel. ), while the tapas at time-tested Enrique Becerra (2 Calle Gamazo, tel. ) is among the best in town.

Must drink – Within confessional distance of the cathedral, Irish-owned Flaherty’s (7 Calle Alemanes) has a suitably blarney atmosphere. The traditional flip side, Casa Morales (11 Calle Garcia de Vinuesa), is the second oldest bar in town and attracts a congenial flat-cap crowd.

Dance the night away – Enjoy funk, hip-hop and acid jazz at Bestiario (33 Calle Zaragoza), attracting an upbeat and studenty crowd.

Shop til you drop – Check out the one-stop shopoholic experience that is El Corte Inglés (1 Plaza de la Magdalena) or, for the ultimate shop and boutique selection, head for the glossy marble pavements of nearby Calle Sierpes.

SANTA CRUZ

This pretty and historic former Jewish quarter is a delight to explore – take a wander through its cobbled streets and plazas flanked by orange trees.

Sleep soundly – Good-value San Francisco (38 Calle Alvarez Quintero, tel. , sanfranciscoh.com, rooms from €50) has comfortable rooms and views of the Giralda bell tower from the terrace.

Culture vultures – The sumptuous Alcázar is like a mini-Alhambra with its elaborate mudejar plasterwork, traditional patios and peaceful gardens punctuated by ponds and fountains.

Must eat – Just off one of the prettiest squares, try the local cuisine at El Corral del Agua (6 Callejón del Agua, tel. ) or the equally charming (and cheaper) Hostería del Laurel (5 Plaza de los Venerables, tel. ), famed for its oxtail stew.

Must drink – A former coal merchants’ yard, La Carbonería (18 Calle Levies) has live flamenco, good wine and a vibrant, foot-tapping atmosphere.

Shop til you drop – Indulge in a bottle of orange-scented Agua de Sevilla perfume (or aftershave) at the store of the same name at 3 Calle San Fernando.

TRIANA & LOS REMEDIOS

The traditional gipsy area of Triana has an evocative, atmospheric feel, while adjacent, more modern Los Remedios is great for restaurants and bars – and a lack of coach tours.

Sleep soundly – Comfortable, convenient and hi-tech, Abba Triana (Plaza de Chapina, tel. , abbatrianahotel.com, from €85) ticks all the right boxes, including the (online) price.

Culture vultures – Triana is an area that’s famed for its traditional ceramics and pottery. Most of the workshops are located on Calle Alfarería, where you can often see craftsmen at work, as well as peruse the shelves.

Must eat – Go for the fish and seafood sourced from Isla Cristina at Sebastián (17 Calle Virgen de las Montañas, tel. ). One of the truly historic Triana tapas bars, meanwhile, Casa Cuesta (3-5 Calle Castilla, tel. ) goes back 50 years and sports unchanged décor, local wine from the barrel and delicious, traditional tapas.

Must drink – A classy Los Remedios bar (and restaurant), José Luis (3 Plaza de Cuba) does superb cocktails and canapés while in Triana, waterside Café de la Prensa (8 Calle Betis) has kick-back appeal for coffee and cocktails.

Dance the night away – A hip café by day, colourful Sala Boss (67 Calle Betis) transforms into a hip-swaying dance club after midnight, with an emphasis on flamenco, rumba and sevillanas music.

Compiled by Josephine Quintero