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Italy : Turin - February 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Turin in winter can be a real charmer: the snow-peaked Alps provide a glistening backdrop to the busy city centre, with its elegant squares and baroque palazzi. And for a bit of top-end culture, the Teatro Regio on Piazza Castello is staging its production of Britten’s Peter Grimes (see teatroregio.torino.it for details). Jack Barnes dons top hat and tails

Getting around

Caselle airport

Bus: A bus service from the airport to the city centre runs every 30 minutes, from 5.15am to 11pm (see www.sadem.it). The journey takes 40 minutes and costs €5.
Train: Trains run directly into Dora station from the airport. The service departs every 30 minutes (see www.gtt.to.it) and takes 40 minutes. Tickets cost €3.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre takes about 30 minutes and costs €35. Tourist information: The city’s main tourist office is at the Atrium, Piazza Solferino (tel. , www.turismotorino.org).

SAN SALVARIO

Once neglected and a place to avoid, San Salvario is an upcoming area populated by artists and creative types.

Must eat – Il Cubico (86 Via Saluzzo, 1 ) features a tasting menu that changes every day, overseen by a young and inventive chef. Look out for the ravioli stuffed with braised beef, black cabbage and thyme-flavoured butter, and make sure you leave room for some of the hazelnut cream cake – it’s unmissable. Il Rospetto (5 Piazza Madama Cristina, ) is a great pizzeria – try the traditional focaccia di recco, made with a soft Ligurian cheese.

Must drink – The Diwan Cafè (15 Via Baretti, closed Sun) is a nice relaxed place to have an early evening drink. It’s big on cultural events, too, and there’s a great bookshop. Soundtown (25 Via Berthollet) is another arty hangout, this one big on music and film. In fact, this busy bar is one of the epicentres of newly hip San Salvario.

Shop til you drop – There’s a great market to explore. Covering Piazza Madama Cristina and Piazza Pietro Franceso Guala (Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm), it features household goods, clothes and general bric-a-brac.

PORTA NUOVA

At the edge of the centro, near the train station, this is a lively area that’s well worth a detour.

Sleep soundly – The Grand Hotel Sitea (35 Via Carlo Alberto, , thi.it, rooms from €210) is an old-school charmer, with panelled rooms and hush-hush ambiance; try the Deluxe rooms. Art Hotel Boston (70 Via Massena, tel. , hotelboston torino.it, rooms from €110), meanwhile, has a quirky, designer feel. The best room is the huge, hi-tech loft.

Culture vultures – The Fondazione Palazzo Bricherasio (20 Via Lagrange) houses a fine collection of post-war artists, including Kandinskij and Malevic, while Maze (40 Via Mazzini, closed Sun) is a cutting-edge gallery with a growing international reputation.

Must eat – C’era una Volta (41 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, , closed Sun) is set in an 18th-century palazzo, with a classic menu to match: the Piedmont boar in a mais pudding is belt-looseningly good. For a more relaxed bite, Churrascaria Estrela do Sul (23 Via Nizza, tel. ; closed Sun) brings some Brazilian sun to a Turin winter. Pig out on the buffet, where you can enjoy up to 17 types of meat including some sizzling lamb.

CITTADELLA

At the northern reaches of the centro, a leafy patchwork of streets with an arty air awaits you – perfect for an afternoon of exploration.

Must drink – Circolo Pueblo (3 Corso Palestro) boasts its own bookshop, gallery and well-stocked bar, while Ego (23b Via San Domenico) is a hip lounge bar, spread over two floors with leopard-print sofas.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on local specialities at Borgiattino (32 Via Cernaia, closed Wed afternoon & Sun), where you’ll find a huge array of cheese and wine to take home. Maison (26 Via San Dalmazzo, closed Sun) is a great homeware shop.

VALENTINO PARK

If the odd touch of spring manages to sneak through the clouds, go for a walk in the park. Wrap up warm and brave the best the weather can throw at you to discover this delightful corner of the city.

Must eat – If the weather allows, grab some classic street food and eat while you tour the park. Pizzeria Gelateria Cecchi (92 Via Madama Cristina, , closed Mon) is great for a pizza al padellino, made in the traditional Tuscan style, or try nearby Pizzeria Dessi (63 Via Madama Cristina, ). It specialises in farinate, pizzas made with chick peas – always worth trying something different when you’re in a new city.

Must drink – Fluido (7 Viale Cagni) is a nice spot for a cocktail or two and, should the mood take you, a bit of a bop.

Compiled by Jack Barnes