Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Welcome to the Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Destination Guides

bthere! Destination guides

Previous issues for Venice

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

Italy : Venice - February 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

February sees Venice Carnival come to town, running from 6-16. Attracting a throng of costumed participants, Carnival boasts an ever more diverse range of theatre, music, dance and other events – look out for this year’s drag queen beauty contest. Roderick Conway Morris surveys the scene

Getting around

Marco Polo International Airport.

Taxi: A road taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma costs about €30. A water taxi will cost approximately €90.
Tourist information: The most helpful tourist office is the Venice Pavilion on the St Mark’s waterfront (, www.turismovenezia.it).
Ferry: Alilaguna ferries go from the airport to Piazza San Marco for €12 (or €25 for the fast, direct service on the Alilaguna Oro). Alternatively, buses cost €3 and stop at Piazzale Roma, opposite the train station. From here, hop on a vaporetto (water bus) to your hotel. One ticket costs €6. The 24-hour pass costs €15.

SAN MARCO

Piazza San Marco – for centuries the epicentre of Venice’s Carnival – is still where it’s at, with traditional Commedia dell’Arte theatrical performances, costume competitions, concerts, tango and burlesque events.

Sleep soundly – The Ridotto was the first ever government-licensed casino. From 1638, gambling was permitted here during the Carnival season – which in the 18th century lasted much of the winter. The elegant stuccoed hall and side rooms of the old Ridotto now form part of the Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal (1332 Calle Vallaresso, , hotelmonaco.it, rooms from €160), whose chic restaurant has a sunny terrace on the Grand Canal.

Must drink – In Ca’ Giustinian, the palazzo next door, is L’Ombra del Leone (1364/A Calle del Ridotto), an attractive new cafe on the ground floor of the headquarters of the Venice Biennale. The bar’s designer furniture and modern décor is worlds away from that of the nearby Caffè Florian (56 Piazza San Marco), founded in 1720. It’s the ideal backdrop to show off your Carnival costume, especially if it matches the antique interiors.

Dance the night away – There are nightly festivities and special events for Carnival at Bar Torino (459 Campo San Luca), a popular venue for young people.

Shop til you drop – The marvellous beads and jewellery, including historic Venetian glass beads, that fill Michel Paciello’s shop Paropamiso (1701 Frezzeria) are treasures brought back from his extensive travels in Europe, Africa and Asia.

DORSODURO

This district is the home of the Accademia Gallery – smaller than some of the other major world galleries but, picture for picture, one of the greatest. There are plenty of other attractions, too.

Culture vultures – Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (704 Dorsoduro) and celebrate the 30th anniversary of the permanent opening to the public of her charming home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, and the landmark collection of 20th-century European and American art that it contains.

Must eat – A stroll down to the Zattere vaporetto stop will take you to the waterfront trattoria Casin dei Nobili (5801 Calle del Mondo Novo, Castello, ). The menu’s relatively short, but includes well-prepared fish and meat dishes, as well as classic pizzas at reasonable prices.

Shop til you drop – A few paces from the museum is Hélène (727 Calle de la Chiesa), Hélène Kuhn Ferruzzi’s little outlet for her fascinating scarves, hangings and fabrics, all of them unique, handmade pieces.

CANNAREGIO

The Cannaregio Canal, which links the Grand Canal to the northern lagoon, is one of the city’s busiest thoroughfares. The traffic is suspended on the first Sunday of Carnival, however, when the neighbourhood stages a colourful procession of rowed boats and a gastronomic festival.

Must eat – Fondamenta della Misericordia is the beginning of a long quay running along the canal on the northern side of the old Jewish ghetto. Among the numerous bars and trattorias to be found here are Alle due Gondolette (3016 Fondamenta Coletti, tel. ), where Luisa’s excellent cooking (lunchtime only) is sensationally good value, and the cosy Osteria Bea Vita (3082 Fondamenta delle Cappuccine, ), where regulars tuck into wholesome hot dishes. Just round the corner from the Fondamenta dela Misericordia is the more sophisticated, picturesque family trattoria Vini da Gigio (3628/A Fondamenta San Felice, ), a favourite with discerning locals and visitors alike that also has a great selection of wines.

Shop til you drop – Stage and film costumier Stefano Nicolao (whose movie credits include The Wings of the Dove, Elizabeth and Casanova) rents and sells stylish costumes for Carnival from his vast collection at Nicolao Atelier (2590 Fondamenta della Misericordia).

Compiled by Roderick Conway Morris