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Lithuania : Vilnius - February 2010

Country Code: Dial 0 for Lithuania

February in Vilnius sees average temperatures of -4ºC: a chilling statistic that will keep all but the hardiest of visitors indoors. Wrapping up and getting outside is highly recommended, however, as the city’s coldest month sees it blissfully empty of tourists. Richard Schofield pulls on his warmest jacket

Getting around

Vilnius International Airport

Bus: The no. 1 bus goes to the central train station every 10–15 minutes. Tickets bought onboard cost €0,40/LTL 1.40.
Train: A fast train leaves every hour from the airport between 6am and 9pm and takes 10 minutes to get to the central station.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and should cost €11,60/LTL 40
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 22 Vilniaus Gatve ( 0, vilniustourism. lt).

OLD TOWN

Northern Europe’s largest Old Town is a city within a city. If you’re staying here, however, be warned that it can get noisy during weekends.

Sleep soundly – An established Old Town favourite, Grybas House (3a Ausros Vartu, 4, grybashouse.com, rooms from €81/LTL 280) offers superb rooms with a family atmosphere that won’t break the bank.

Culture vultures – Jurgis Slapelis was a doctor and champion of the modern Lithuanian language. The Marija and Jurgis Šlapeliai Museum (40 Pilies Street) celebrates his accomplishments, and a guided tour is recommended for an in-depth look into the 19th-century independence movement.

Must eat – Head to SMC (2 Vokieciu, 7), based inside the Contemporary Art Centre, to enjoy a classic café serving good-value local food and cheap beer, which attracts many of the city’s celebrities.

Must drink – One of Old Town’s better new wine bars, Franki (37 Vilniaus) features friendly waitresses and is the best place in the city for late-night drinks on a Sunday.

Dance the night away – Favoured by the city’s A-list and beautiful people, Friday and Saturday nights at Pabo Latino (3 Traku) include quality Latin DJs and some fine live Latin music.

CITY CENTRE

Russian imperialist architecture and socialist realist masterpieces rub shoulders with the country’s new rich, eating in the best restaurants and staying up all night in the liveliest of the capital’s clubs.

Sleep soundly – One of the friendliest places to stay in Vilnius, Old Market B&B (57 Pylimo, 3, oldmarket.lt, prices from €30/ LTL 105) can’t be recommended highly enough. They also have a few good apartments.

Culture vultures – Learn about the city’s Jewish past and visit the gallery of Jewish art on the top floor of the Tolerance Centre (10 Naugarduko).

Must eat – Retired wing Commander Rajinder Chaudhary hand-picks his chefs and spices in India and provides the best Indian food in the Baltics at Sue’s Indian Raja (3 Odminiu, 8), opposite the Cathedral.

Must drink – Microbrewery Prie Katedros (5 Gedimino) offers its own dark, light and honey-flavoured beer.

Dance the night away – Now under English management, Gravity (16 Jasinskio) showcases some fine contemporary art as well as promoting the best DJs from home and abroad.

UŽUPIS

Užupis’ reputation for eccentricity is well deserved, and it should be a must-see on any itinerary.

Culture vultures – Tumbledown Užupio Meno Inkubatorius (2 Užupio) is a quirky gallery featuring a wealth of local

Must eat – Chow down on some intriguing pizzas alongside the cream of the city’s poets at Užupio Picerija (3 Paupio, 6).

Must drink – No visit to Vilnius is complete without a drink in the legendary artists’ drinking den that is Užupio Kavine (2 Užupio).

SUBURBS

Stretch your legs and venture out into the suburbs – you’ll be rewarded with one or two exceptional surprises.

Sleep soundly – A smart hotel out in the sticks and close to the historic Television Tower, Karolina (2 Sausio 13-osios, 4, karolina.lt, prices from €64/ LTL 220) is still just a short taxi ride from the centre.

Culture vultures – The free museum at the Television Tower (10 Sausio 13-osios) highlights the plight of the unarmed civilians killed by Russian troops in January 1991. And the restaurant at the top of the tower, Pauksciu Takas ( 6), boasts superb views of the city.

Must eat – The fantastic churrasco and espeto corrido food at Grill Brazil (9 Saltoniskiu, 7) inside the Panorama shopping centre is well worth the trip. Or for the full-on Lithuanian folk restaurant experience, jump in a taxi and put on a few extra kilos at Marceliukes Kletis (35 Tuskulenu, 7).

Compiled by Richard Schofield