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France : Lyon - March 2010

Country Code: Dial for France

Amongst the daffodils and green spaces, spring poetry festivals pop up across France during Le Printemps des Poètes – catch one of the many readings in Lyon from 8-21 March. John Brown keeps his ear out for sonnets, as well as the chiming church bells and trickling fountains

Getting around

Saint Exupéry Airport

Bus: There is the Satobus every 20 minutes to and from the airport. Buses run from 5.35am to 11.40pm, seven days a week. A single ticket to the city costs €8.60 and the journey takes about 50 minutes.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre costs approximately €50 during the day and €65 at night, taking around 45 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at Place Bellecour (tel. , en. www.lyon-france.com).

PLACE DES JACOBINS

Gaspard Andre’s fountain (1886) dominates the shopping hub around rues Émile Zola, Gasparin and President Edouard Herriot. With an abundance of designer and speciality shops, even the most savvy spender will find themselves in a dilemma here.

Culture vultures – You don’t need to look far to find yourself surrounded by Lyon’s history. The main square, now called Place Bellecour, is central to the story of the city, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Must eat – Refuel at Gotman-Etsu (11 Rue Lanterne, tel. ) with omelettes abundantly filled with the freshest flavours from the Orient.

Must drink – The convivial village terrace feel at Le Broc’café (2 Place de l’Hopital) makes this a great place to chat and sip a glass of wine over a copious charcuterie or cheese platter.

Dance the night away – Locals line up to be part of the music mayhem at Pinks (38 Rue de l’Arbre Sec). Dress to impress, as this Lyonnais institution can be choosy at the weekend.

Shop til you drop – Downtown Market (8 Rue Confort), which opened recently, is a concept store offering the very latest in fashion and décor.

SAONE RIVERBANK

Stroll the banks of this gentle giant and enjoy scenic views of some of the older sights Lyon has to offer, including the Cathedral (see below) and the spectacular Fourvière Basilica.

Sleep soundly – Hotel St Paul (6 Rue Lainerie, tel. , hotelst paul.fr, rooms from €60) offers clean and cosy comfort, and promises panoramas over the city.

Culture vultures – St-Jean Cathedral (Place St Jean) has astonishing features dating back to the 11th century. Listen out for the 14th-century astronomical clock – this marvel of technology chimes on the hour.

Must eat – Happy Friends Family restaurant (29 Rue du Boeuf, tel. ) serves up sumptuous local specialities for €20. An alternative just a few doors down, La Tour Rose (22 Rue du Boeuf, ), uses the very best seasonal produce to create a veritable work of art, with dishes starting at €39.

Dance the night away – Le Woodlands (32 Quai Arloing) sees DJs spinning pop, rock and indie tunes over two large rooms. At weekends the student crowd barely breaks away from the dance floor until dawn breaks.

SAXE / FOCH

Avenue de Saxe runs parallel to the Rhone river and stretches over three quarters. Start with the colourful Chinese and Arab quarters, then head up to the bourgeois Place Lyautey, where ladies that lunch hang out. Nearby, Tête d’Or park shouldn’t be missed at this time of year.

Sleep soundly – The lavish Hotel Roosevelt (48 Rue de Sèze, tel. , hotel-roosevelt.com, rooms from €100) will give you the respite you need in luxury surroundings. Well worth the indulgence.

Must eat – Grand Café de Genève (10 Avenue de Saxe, tel. ) serves up no-frills meat specials from the region, while pork is the mainstay of the delicious rustic-meets-contemporary menu at Le Saint Cochon (31 Rue Ney, tel. ). The greatest wines of the Rhone Valley complete this perfect regional dining experience.

Must drink – Wind up your evening at Gnôme et Rhône (157 Avenue de Saxe), where wilted shoppers meet up with office spill-outs to munch on tapas and toe-tap to live bands – or cheer on their team on the large screen on match nights.

Dance the night away – Board the riverboat bar and club Peniche La Marquise (20 Quai Augagneur, tel. ) to enjoy the sounds of salsa, house, jungle and break-beat music. Alternatively, The Sirius – the next barge along – puts on live bands most nights, if you’re looking for a more head-banging beat.

Shop til you drop – Make a start at Saxe-Gambetta metro, where you’ll find a plethora of ethnic stores, then move on to the Avenue de Saxe, with everything from clothing to bookstores, and pet stores to GP surgeries.

Compiled by John Brown