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Spain : Malaga - March 2010

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Spring and incense are in the air as Malaga bursts into bloom and the city’s churches gear up for Holy Week. Starting with Palm Sunday on 28 March, the streets metamorphose into rivers of swaying Christs and Virgins on candlelit, flower-strewn floats. Theresa O’Shea joins the action

Getting around

Malaga Airport is 9km south-west of the city centre.

Bus: The No.19 leaves from outside arrivals every 30 minutes, from 6.25am to 11.30pm. Tickets cost €1.
Taxi: A journey from the airport to the city centre costs approximately €15 to €18.
Tourist information: The main office is at 1 Plaza de la Marina (tel. , malagaturismo.com).

HISTORIC CENTRE

Supping, shopping and sightseeing opportunities galore are packed into this warren of streets old and new.

Sleep soundly – With its art deco façade, black-and-white chequered floors and chic furnishings, Larios (2 Calle Marqués de Larios, tel. , hotel-larios.com, rooms from €86) is one of the snazziest places to stay. Bag a room with a balcony overlooking emblematic Larios Street.

Must eat – Beat the recession at Meson la Aldea (5 Calle de los Esparteros, tel. ). The lunch menu costs just €7 and includes tasty, filling fare such as seafood soup, grilled dorado (a white fish) and aubergine bake.

Must drink – There are Moorish-style teashops near the Cathedral and Picasso Museum – try Tetería La Manquita (8 Calle Duque de la Victoria) or La Tetería (9 Calle San Agustín).

Dance the night away – No-nonsense ZZ Pub (6 Calle Tejón y Rodríguez) is a classic venue for live rock, blues and funk. Performances kick off at midnight.

Shop til you drop – Treat your feet at one of the many shoe shops around Larios Street – from cheap and trendy Timbo (2 Calle Nueva) to innovatively upmarket Farrutx (6 Marqués de Larios).

ALAMEDA

Separating the old town from the park and harbour, the city’s busiest thoroughfare is lined with some splendid stately buildings.

Sleep soundly – The 12-storey MS Maestranza (19 Paseo de Reding, tel. , mshoteles.com, rooms from €75) has four-star comfort and unbeatable views of the Alcazaba castle.

Culture vultures – Get in touch with your inner Bach/Beethoven/Beatle at the Interactive Music Museum (Plaza de la Marina).

Must eat – For death by chocolate and other dulces (sweet things) head to Arte Postre (Calle de Cerezuela, tel. ). Don’t miss the brownies.

Must drink – Great coffee, minimalist décor and friendly service are on the menu at Frankamente (Calle de Alemania), a café that’s located inside the Contemporary Arts Centre.

Dance the night away – Shiver your timbers on the dance floor aboard the Santisima Trinidad (3 Puerto de Málaga Muelle), a full-size replica of an 18th-century sailing ship.

Shop til you drop – No es pecado (42 Alameda Principal) means ‘it’s not a sin’, and is the name of Malaga’s first female-friendly erotic shop.

PEDREGALEJO

A short bus ride east of the bullring brings you to the once-sleepy fishing district of Pedregalejo.

Sleep soundly – Oozing atmosphere, colour and charm, Hostal and Restaurant Las Acacias (5 Paseo las Acacias, tel. , lasacaciashr.com, rooms from €42) is housed in an early 20th-century villa with an interior courtyard full of lemon trees.

Must eat – For fried fish and sardines barbecued on a skewer along Paseo Marítimo de Pedregal, try El Cabra (89, tel. ) or Maricuchi (14, tel. ).

Must drink – There are loads of chill-out bars with Wi-Fi along the seafront; Namaste (74 Paseo Marítimo de Pedregal) is one of the best.

NORTH-EAST MALAGA

The unspoiled white villages and vine-covered hills of the Axarquía are less than half an hour away.

Sleep soundly – Perched on the hillside near Moclinejo, Hotel Vistalmar (Crta. de Moclinejo Km 1, tel. , hotelmoclinejo.com, rooms from €55) is a haven of rustic tranquillity. Each of the 12 rooms is decorated in Mediterranean blues, yellows and pinks, and has its own balcony with magnificent sea views.

Culture vultures – Take a trip through the history of wine-making at the Antonio Muñoz Bodega and museum in Moclinejo. Visits can be arranged through Hotel Vistamar (see above).

Must eat – El Oasis (3 Plaza de las Flores, Benagalbón, tel. ) looks out onto a flower-filled village square, serves superior vegetarian cuisine and has a tree growing out of the roof. Specialities include ‘meat’ balls in an almond sauce and spinach with pine nuts, raisins and cheese.

Compiled by Theresa O’Shea