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Italy : Naples - March 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

For all its sensual vitality, Naples retains an arty edge, with the contemporary sitting side-by-side with antiquities. For a history lesson, visit the Cavalieri exhibition at La Venaria Reale (until 11 April, lavenaria.it), before enjoying the city’s more modern cultural concerns, seen everywhere from galleries to train stations. Matt Barker enjoys Naples in full exhibition mode

Getting around

Naples International Airport at Capodichino.

Bus: The Alibus runs directly from the airport to Stazione Centrale every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €3. The orange bus (the 3S) runs every 25 minutes. Tickets are from €1.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the centre costs around €13. An Artecard (costs from €13) is a good option giving you free travel plus some museum entry. You can buy it at the airport when you arrive (www.campaniartecard.it)
Tourist information: Go to the TEPT Office at Stazione Centrale, Piazza Garibaldi, www.eptnapoli.info)

SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE

One of Naples’ most elegant piazzas, right in the heart of the city’s fabled centro storico.

Sleep soundly – The Palazzo Caracciolo (112a via Carbonara, , accorhotels.com, rooms from €99), set in a 16th-century palace, mixes classic baroque touches with modish design. Book a room with a terrace. Or the Palazzo Decumani (8 Piazza Giustino Fortunato, tel. , palazzo decumani.com, rooms from €140) is a more boutique-style affair; the deluxe suites are huge.

Culture vultures – The piazza is lined with several historically important buildings and churches, including the Guglia di San Domenico church and Sangro di Casacalenda palace. For a more contemporary experience, the nearby Fondazione Morra Greco (17 Largo Avellino) gallery, spread over three floors, showcases the work of emerging artists.

Must eat – For a top-end treat, Palazzo Petrucci (4 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, ) has a menu combining the best of land and sea. Try the house dish of lasagnetta, made with prawns. It’s certainly not cheap, but it’s darn near unforgettable. Bang opposite is the Pasticceria Scaturchio (19 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, ), where you can gorge yourself on a chocolate ministeriale pastry with liqueur cream filling.

SANTA MARIA LA NOVA

Tucked away around the corner from Via Monteoliveto, this busy piazza is surrounded by churches and is well worth a visit, if only to soak up the history and culture.

Must eat – For Neapolitan street food, Timpani e Tempura (17 Vico delle Querce, ) is a must – try the rice timbale, a local take on the risotto. Alternatively, La Taverna dell’Arte (1a Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, , closed Sunday) is an atmospheric osteria where you can enjoy traditional baccalà (salt cod) and paccheri pasta with olive sauce.

Must drink – Just up the road you’ll find Bar Lazzarella (7 Calata Trinita Maggiore), a popular hangout for a lively student crowd, while Aret’ A Palm (14 Piazza Santa Maria la Nova) is a great little bar on the square, with friendly locals.

Shop til you drop – Manidesign (1b Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli) is a gallery-cum-shop stocking the works of young local designers and artists.

MATERDEI

This quarter takes its name from a church, but is as well known for its chic train station, complete with artwork by Sol LeWitt.

Culture vultures – The Teatro Bolivar (30 Via Battistello Caracciolo) has an international reputation for cutting-edge drama, dance and other performing arts. See teatrobolivar.com for event details.

Must eat – For pizza, try the Pizzeria Starita (27-28 Via Materdei, , closed Sunday and Monday lunch), where you can enjoy an utterly delicious montanara (basically a classic margherita, but lightly fried before baking).

Shop til you drop – Filo di Partenope (4 Via della Sapienza, closed Sunday) is a fabulous bookshop, stocked with volumes tracing the history of art.

VIA PARTENOPE

Grab some bracing sea air down by the waterfront, then join the bar-hopping throng as the evening kicks in.

Must eat – One of the city’s most popular pizzerias, I Rei di Napoli (29-30 Via Partenope, ) also has the added bonus of overlooking the waterfront. A great spot for a thin-crusted marinara. For some classic seafood, Ciro (29 Via Luculliana, ) takes some beating – tuck into the excellent spaghetti with clams, or grilled octopus.

Must drink – For a cocktail or two, pop down to Caffè al Barcadero (2 Banchina Santa Lucia), in the shadow of the landmark Castel dell’Ovo. Or the nearby Enoteca Belledonne (18 Vico Belledonne a Chiaia) is an excellent place to familiarise yourself with the local wines.

Compiled by Matt Barker