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France : Strasbourg - March 2010

Country Code: Dial for France

This month, Strasbourg shrugs off its cosy winter coat to welcome spring. It’s an enchanting time to stroll the riverbanks, admiring the covered bridges and decorative architecture of a town that’s nine parts old-world chocolate box and one part refreshingly startling futurism. Anthea Gerrie goes exploring

Getting around

Strasbourg International

Bus: A bus to Baggersee Station, which has an A-line tram connection to the city centre, leaves every 20 minutes. It takes about 30 minutes and costs €5,10.
Train: Trains leave Entzheim Station every 30 minutes from 5.30am to 8.30pm. The journey to the centre takes 12 minutes and costs €2,10.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre costs around €35 and takes about 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The central tourist office is at 17 Place de la Cathédrale (tel. , otstrasbourg.fr)

RIGHT BANK

This less-travelled part of town is the cultural centre of Strasbourg. It’s rich with fine museums and eclectic little bars, shops and restaurants, favoured by the student population.

Culture vultures – Les Giboulées de la Marionnette is an international festival of puppet plays, held from 19-27 March this year, at the purpose-built Théâtre Jeune Public (7 Rue des Balayeurs, theatre-jeune-public.com).

Must eat – Fink’ Steubel (26 Rue Finkwiller, tel. ) is a gastronomic cut above your typical winstub; the cosy pub-restaurants serving regional specialities for which Strasbourg is famous. Make sure you try the incredible homemade foie gras.

Dance the night away – Practically next door to the puppet theatre, grown-ups pull their own strings on the dance floor at Living Room (11 Rue des Balayeurs), a surprisingly elegant club.

PETITE FRANCE

Strasbourg’s most picturesque area is a must-see, and happily it sits bang in the city centre on its own island.

Sleep soundly – The Regent Petite France (5 Rue des Moulins, tel. , regent-petite-france.com, rooms from €169) is an oasis of contemporary chic sitting in the sea of architectural twee beyond its portals.

Must eat – At L’Ami Schutz (1 Rue des Ponts Couverts, tel. ) you can lunch outside in the glorious spring sunshine, or dine cosily beneath the beams when the weather takes a turn for the worse.

Shop til you drop – Noel en Alsace (10 Rue des Dentelles) is the place to stock up on Christmas ornaments and tree decorations months in advance – no region does festive baubles better.

GRAND ÎLE

You’re bound to spend a large part of your stay in this central area, home to both the historic centre and modern shopping district.

Culture vultures – The Cathédrale Notre Dame (Place de la Cathédrale) is a fantastically-carved pink sandstone pile that’s not to be missed, while tourist boats leave from in front of the nearby Palais Rohan (2 Place du Château) where Marie Antoinette was brought as a child bride. The boat trip gives an overview of the city, including Petite France and the striking EU buildings beyond.

Must eat – Le Clou (3 Rue du Chaudron, tel. ) is the best place to try local dishes such as choucroute – many kinds of pork on a bed of pickled cabbage – in a packed, highly-decorated setting where you’ll get to know fellow diners fast.

Shop til you drop – The Place du Marché aux Poissons near the boat dock has a charming morning market, and also houses Arts et Collections d’Alsace, an emporium showcasing the finest local metalwork, linen, pottery and other decorative crafts for which the region is famous.

CITE EUROPEENNE

This area of futuristic government buildings, such a contrast to the carved and curlicue architecture of central Strasbourg, is worth devoting a day to exploring. It also makes a tranquil alternative base to the bustling centre.

Sleep soundly – The 18th-century Château de Pourtalès (161 Rue Mélanie, tel. , chateau-pourtales. eu, rooms from €79) houses the newest B&B rooms in Strasbourg, close to the European Parliament.

Culture vultures – Have a good wander around the astonishing modern buildings which represent the 21st-century face of Strasbourg, and its status as a European capital. Book ahead if you’re keen to get an inside look at the stunning Court of Human Rights (tel. ) or Council of Europe (tel. ); the European Parliament is only open to individuals when in session.

Must eat – Buerehiesel (4 Parc de l’Orangerie, tel. ) is the perfect place for a blow-out feast in rustic surroundings, close to the Council of Europe building.

Must drink – Café Brant (11 Place de l’Université) is a famous student haunt that’s perfect for a postprandial drink in atmospheric and buzzy surroundings.

Compiled by Anthea Gerrie