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Spain : Barcelona - April 2010

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Spring is in the air and the days are noticeably longer – all the better for walking Barcelona’s 4km waterfront or discovering its eclectic architecture, ranging from Roman ruins to cutting-edge high rises. Tradition thrives, too, as Catalans celebrate patron saint Jordi (George) on 23 April in a romantic exchange of roses and books. Judy Thomson strolls with purpose

Getting around

El Prat

Bus: The nearest airport is El Prat Airport, about 12km from the city.

GOTHIC QUARTER

Get to the heart of the old city with a meander through the ancient lanes that wind around the Cathedral, leading to hidden squares, 18th-century candle shops and designer boutiques.

Sleep soundly – The recently opened Hotel Catalonia Catedral (10 Carrer dels Arcs, tel. , hoteles-catalonia. com, rooms from €159) has an attractive modern interior within a stunning modernista façade, dating from 1910.

Culture vultures – Built on the site of the Roman forum, the Plaça Sant Jaume is now home to the Palau de la Generalitat, the seat of the Catalan government, and the Casa de la Ciutat (town hall). On La Diada de Sant Jordi (23 April) red roses are sold in the square, and it’s one of the few days that both buildings are open to the public.

Must eat – In a tiny square off Plaça Sant Jaume is the attractive Cafè de l’Acadèmia (1 Lledó, tel. ). Low key, it’s one of the city’s best restaurants, serving Catalan classics with a stylish contemporary twist.

Must drink – An essential coffee stop is Mesón del Café (16 Llibreteria), a long, narrow bar that’s unchanged by designer Barcelona, while equally unscathed La Pallaresa (11 Petritxol) is a classic known for its thick hot chocolate and bow-tied waiters in crisp white jackets.

Shop til you drop – Exquisite candle shop Cereria Subirà (7 Baixada Llibreteria) dates back to the 18th century, while you’ll find colourful ceramics at La Caixa de Fang (1 Freneria) and avant-garde fashion at the studio/ shop of two hotshot young designers known as El Delgado Buil (4 Lledó).

EIXAMPLE

Contrasting with the Old Town, this 19th-century district is laid out on a grid and boasts the best of Gaudí’s buildings, world-class restaurants and sophisticated shopping.

Sleep soundly – A newcomer to Spain, the exclusive Mandarin Oriental (38-40 Passeig de Gràcia, tel. , mandarinoriental.com/Barcelona, rooms from €295) is pure indulgence, offering privileged views, interior gardens and cuisine from five-Michelin-starred chef Carme Ruscalleda.

Culture vultures – On the same broad, glamourous avenue that cuts through the neighbourhood is the Fundació Suñol (98 Passeig de Gràcia, open 4pm-8pm, Monday to Saturday). An exciting space that houses a private modern art collection, it’s currently showing a retrospective of one of Catalonia’s leading 20th-century artists, Joan Hernández Pijuan.

Must eat – Prestigious wine-makers Torres have ventured into catering at La Vinoteca (78 Passeig de Gràcia, tel. ). Savour small, tasty dishes such as esqueixada de bacallà (salt cod salad) with the most appropriate wine from their huge range (by the glass) at the welcoming, streamlined bar.

POBLE NOU

Once known as the Manchester of Catalonia because of its 19th-century factories, this fascinating area between the new beaches and Jean Nouvel’s gherkin-like Torre Agbar is metamorphosing into a district of high-tech businesses and university facilities in showcase buildings.

Culture vultures – Visit Can Framis (116-126 Roc Boronat) to get the feel of this rapidly changing district – it’s an old wool factory that has been converted into an award-winning contemporary art museum.

Must eat – Enjoy sublime cuisine and breathtaking sea and city views at Dos Cielos on the 24th floor of ME Hotel (272 Pere IV, tel. ). Try the tasting menu prepared by highly regarded twin chefs Javier and Sergio Torres. More down-to-earth bar options sit on the nearby Rambla, such as Barlovento (21 Rambla de Poble Nou, tel. ), where you’ll find locals enjoying tasty tapas.

Dance the night away – With five clubs to choose from and regular live gigs, Razzmatazz (122 Almogàvers) is one of the city’s favourite venues. Catch Sonic Youth there on 18 April.

Compiled by Judy Thomson