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Italy : Bologna - April 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Spring is a great time to visit Bologna; the temperatures are on the rise, the days longer and there’s always plenty going on. This month sees the Human Rights Nights Film Festival taking place at various venues across the city, featuring movies from the likes of Kathryn Bigelow and Spike Lee (for more details see humanrightsnights.org). Matt Barker enjoys some culture in between mouthfuls of chocolate

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

VIA INDIPENDENZA

One of Bologna’s main thoroughfares, designed in the 19th century to help steam-age tourists make their way from the station up to Piazza Maggiore.

Culture vultures – The Museo Civico Medievale (4 Via Manzoni, closed Mon) is a gem, with a permanent collection of art works and artefacts dating from the 1300s. The Arena del Sole (44 Via Indipendenza) is a magnificently grand venue for theatrical and musical productions – visit arenadelsole.it for a programme of forthcoming events.

Must eat – Tasty local pasta specialities are dished up at restaurant Diana (24 Via Indipendenza, tel. ), including the ubiquitous tortellini in broth and tagliolini with butter, truffles and porcini mushrooms.

Shop til you drop – Away from the usual big-name label suspects, try the outdoor market (Piazza Otto Agosto) held every Friday and Saturday in the Montagnola Gardens – it’s great for vintage clothes and retro bric-a-brac. Or the Cappellerie Trentini di Beccari Carmen (33e Via Indipendenza) – a wonderfully old-school hat shop, with natty headwear to suit all tastes.

VIA CLAVATURE

A charming cobbled medieval lane leading off from Piazza Maggiore, this is a great starting point for discovering the charms of the centro.

Must eat – For classic Bolognese fare, Da Gianni a la vècia Bulàgna (18 Via Clavature, tel. ) is hard to beat. Hugely popular with regulars who drop by for a bowl of tripe stew – don’t knock it until you’ve tried it – this is where to head if you want to live life like a local.

Shop til you drop – For a bargain pair of designer shoes, step into the Gianfranco Pini Le Occasioni Outlet (17 Via Clavature), where you’ll find reduced prices on footwear for men and women. Next door, stock up on chocolates, including a special cognac-filled variety, at Roccati (17a Via Clavature).

PIAZZA VERDI

On the edge of the busy university quarter, this is one of the city’s best-loved public spaces, always filled with noisy chatter and laughter.

Sleep soundly – The Best Western San Donato (16 Via Zamboni, tel. , hotelsandonato.it, rooms from €85) has a lovely roof-top terrace in the shadow of the two towers. Try and get a room at the back of the hotel, away from the late-night noise of Via Zamboni.

Culture vultures – The 17th-century Teatro Comunale (1 Largo Respighi) has been the stage for many a celebrated opera production, with this month’s programme including Donizetti’s L’Elisir d’Amore (find details at tcbo.it). The Biblioteca Salaborsa (3 Piazza Nettuno) is a high-tech library and meeting point, where you can browse 250,000 books, watch the occasional event, surf the internet and get your bearings over a cup of coffee.

Must drink – Grab a coffee at the Bar Caffè Del Teatro (26 Via Zamboni) or get your evening started with a drink or two at the nicely relaxed Godot Wine Bar (12b Via Cartoleria).

PORTA DELLE LAME

One of the 12 ancient gates of the city and bursting with history, this forms the centrepiece of a buzzy quarter just off the centro.

Sleep soundly – Il Convento dei Fiori di Seta (34 Via Orfeo, tel. , ilconventodeifioridiseta.com, rooms from €160) is a chic retreat set in a former nunnery and big on luxurious comfort, with prices to match. Pick of the rooms has to be the dazzling Junior Suite Platinum.

Must eat – One of the city’s best spots for ice cream is La Sorbetteria Castiglione (44 Via Castiglione, tel. ) – try a dish of the egg cream with vin santo, or a slice of coffee cassata. The Drogheria della Rosa (10 Via Cartoleria, tel. ), meanwhile, brings a lighter touch to classic cucina Bolognese; the pan-fried lamb with rosemary is a treat.

Compiled by Matt Barker