Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

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Belgium : Brussels - April 2010

Country Code: Dial for Belgium

Enjoy a majestic walk amid rare flowers and exotic trees this month, when the Royal Greenhouses of Laeken open their gates to the general public (15 April – 9 May). Bloodthirsty bunnies, meanwhile, can satisfy their gory impulses at the Fantastic Film Festival. From African films to modern vintage-style hotels, Nina Lamparski discovers where Brussels’ fun takes place in April

Getting around

Brussels Airport

Bus: The No 12 bus runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Rond-Point Schuman. The journey takes about 30 minutes. A oneway ticket costs €3.
Train: Trains from the airport run every 20 minutes at peak times. The journey takes 15 minutes and trains go to Brussels’ three mainline stations. Tickets cost approximately €2,80
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost around €25-35. The journey should take about 25 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office can be found on Grand’Place in the city centre (tel. , www.brussels.

RUE DES CHARTREUX

In one of the funkiest neighbourhoods, this pretty street aptly combines old-world charm with progress. Once home to a monastery, spiritual silence reigns supreme no more. Nowadays, the strip is an eclectic hub of slick interior shops, vintage fashion and charming late-night joints.

Culture vultures – You can’t miss the beautiful 22m2 Angel of Sambre mural (21 Rue des Chartreux) by local comic-book artist Bernard Hislaire, AKA Yslaire. Spot the peeing dog statue Zinneke Pis on the corner – a fine example of Brussels humour – before checking out La Maison d’Art Actuel des Chartreux (26 Rue des Chartreux) for progressive works by young and established artists.

Must eat – After renovations, the cult restaurant Fin de Siècle (9 Rue des Chartreux) is as busy as ever and continues to serve a mix of Belgian and Mediterranean cooking in a grungy-romantic setting. They don’t take bookings so you might have to queue for a bit, but rest assured that the culinary experience is worth every second of your wait.

Must drink – Mingle with beer-drinking chess players at the art nouveau-style Greenwich (7 Rue des Chartreux), while philosophical conversations are best held after midnight over a glass of whiskey at Lord Byron (8 Rue des Chartreux). The place is easy to spot thanks to its unusual art installation featuring huge polystyrene bullets in the window. For great cocktails head to Cobra Bar (1 Rue des Chartreux), where the music is as fun as the guy running the joint.

Shop til you drop – Temptation is everywhere, from the pretty dresses at second-hand haven Gabriele Vintage (27 Rue des Chartreux) to the kitsch deco temple Lucien Cravate (24 Rue des Chartreux). Espace Bizarre (17-19 Rue des Chartreux) sells modern cult furniture at vertiginous prices, cool cats will love the bags from Abre Mandarine (48b Rue des Chartreux) and high-tech geeks must check out Whazup (14 Rue des Chartreux) for its quirky imports from Japan.

CHAUSSÉE DE WAVRE

Starting from the Chaussée d’Ixelles shopping mile, this long road leads you through to the vibrant African neighbourhood into the EU quarter. Come here to get a real sense of Brussels’ diverse identities, excellent restaurants and exotic nightlife.

Sleep soundly – The Vintage Hotel (45 Rue Dejoncker, tel. , vintagehotel.be, rates from €85) opened last September and combines 1960s kitsch with contemporary pieces. The wine bar features a bench from New York’s JFK Airport, while each room has been decorated in a unique style.

Culture vultures – One of the city’s last truly independent cinemas, the Vendôme (18 Chaussée de Wavre) is nearing its 60th birthday. Make sure to check out its Festival of African Cinema from 21 to 25 April. Bookworms, meanwhile, can visit a museum dedicated to the famous Belgian novelist Camille Lemonnier (150 Chaussée de Wavre).

Must eat – Located in the heart of the African quarter, Indo-Pakistani restaurant Mumtaz (64 Chaussée de Wavre, tel. ) is almost too good to be shared. The friendly owner greets his customers like long-lost friends, and the food is consistently excellent. Highlights include the ultra-tender and perfectly seasoned tandoori chicken and crisp, warm paratha bread. It can get busy on weekends, so be sure to book. Just around the corner, Le Patty Pâtes (10 Rue Ernest Solvay, tel. ) serves delicious pasta in a lovely, luminous setting.

Must drink – If you’re in the mood for something totally different, check out the Mambo Club (70 Chaussée de Wavre). Here since the 1970s, this small African place is a neighbourhood institution.

Dance the night away – Don some cowboy boots and line-dance your way into Le Grain d’Orge (142 Chaussée de Wavre), an old-school venue for live blues, jazz and country gigs. Or for those in bling-bling clubbing mode, there’s Studio 44 (44 Avenue de la Toison d’Or). Open from Thursday to Sunday, it attracts a fairly young and styled-up crowd.

Shop til you drop – Open since November 2009, Thierry Frugier’s exclusive hair salon (9 Rue Ernest Solvay) is hidden away in a side street. He works with natural colours and is renowned for his cutting talents.

LÉON LEPAGE AREA

Named after one of the city’s most brilliant lawyers, this broad street of cobblestones has been going through gentrification since the 1990s. As a result, it features a fascinating mix of wholesale fishmongers, Belgian fashion designers and loft-style apartments. One to watch, this area could potentially become Brussels’ version of New York’s Meatpacking District.

Sleep soundly – A five-minute cab ride from Rue Léon Lepage is the charming Sweet Brussels B&B (78 Avenue de Stalingrad, tel. , sweetbrussels.be, rates from €85), boasting gorgeous rooms with wooden floors, old-fashioned bathtubs and wrought-iron balconies.

Culture vultures – Get spooked at the annual International Fantastic Film Festival (April 8-20, bifff.net), which will showcase around 60 very scary movies. This highly interactive event often sees enthusiasts turn up for screenings in full fancy dress gear. Best night? The Vampire Ball, from dusk till dawn on 17 April.

Must eat – A favourite with locals, Viva M’Boma (17 Rue de Flandre, tel. ) has received a Michelin accolade for its authentic Belgian cuisine. The name is old Bruxellois dialect, and means ‘long live grandma’. Alternatively, the fabulous black-and-white interior and wonderful fusion cuisine make Switch (6 Rue de Flandre, tel. ) a must-visit. Run by a former food journalist, the place tends to get packed, so book ahead.

Dance the night away – With a mirror bar, silver room and royal section, the Fiesta Club (20 Quai des Usines) is a dance temple reminiscent of the 1990s, when ‘going to the disco’ wasn’t a tacky phrase. The music ranges from bombastic house to bouncin’ hip-hop.

Shop til you drop – You’re in great company in this neighbourhood, with the likes of fashion designers Jean-Paul Knott (3 Rue Léon Lepage), Mieke Cosyn (11 Rue Léon Lepage) and Martin Margiela (40 Rue Léon Lepage).

MECHELEN

Barely 25km from Brussels you’ll discover this historical city gem, whose illustrious inhabitants included Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and Henry VIII’s second wife, Anne Boleyn. Travel back in time amidst ancient churches, canals and carillons.

Sleep soundly – Both saints and sinners are welcome at the four-star Patershof (4 Karmelietenstraat, 4646, martins-hotels.com, rates from €79, breakfast included). This converted 19th-century Franciscan church has preserved some traditional elements, such as the stunning stained-glass windows, while adding a modern twist.

Culture vultures – The UNESCO world heritage Sint-Romboutskathedraal (St Rumbold’s Cathedral) and Groot Begijnhof are must-sees, as well as the 14th-century City Hall. And take a stroll past the picturesque remnants of an ancient canal called Groen Waterke (or green water), between Hallestraat and Grote Markt – locals will point you in the right direction.

Must eat – Everything is big, shiny and beautiful at Puro (20 Guldenstraat, 6822), set inside the former offices of the Lamot brewery. Bonus: the place serves yummy breakfast options between 10 and 11.30am.

Must drink – Expect to have a session at the Het Anker (49 Guido Gezellelaan), home of award-winning Gouden Carolus beer. Founded in 1369, this is one of Belgium’s oldest breweries. If you’ve had one too many, you can even spend the night (but note that the restaurant is closed until May due to renovations). Two of the best central bars are the traditional Lord Nelson (8 Wollemarkt), next to the cathedral, and the ultra-slick Barramundo (2 Steenweg).

Compiled by Nina Lamparski