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Switzerland : Geneva - April 2010

Country Code: Dial for Switzerland

Spring truly begins in April in Geneva. Pleasure boats traverse the lake once more after the cold winter, the parks begin to bloom and, slowly, the cafés and restaurants set up their outdoor terraces for the summer months ahead. Jane van Lanschot Hubrecht takes in the fresh air of the city

Getting around

Geneva Cointrin International Airport

Bus: If staying on the left bank, the No 10 will get you to Cornavin Station in 10 minutes and across the river in about 15 minutes
Train: The train from the airport to the city centre takes six minutes. A one-hour Tout Genève pass costs €1,90/CHF 3, which you can also use on buses.
Taxi: Taxis cost €19-25/CHF 30-40 and take about 15 minutes to the centre.
Tourist information: 18 Rue du Mont-Blanc (, www.genevetourism.ch).

QUARTIER DES BAINS

This is the hub of Geneva’s contemporary art scene – approximately 20 galleries are clustered within easy walking distance of one another.

Culture vultures – Head to the Batiment d’Art Contemporain (10 Rue des Vieux Grenadiers) which houses Geneva’s Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMCO), the hip Centre d’Art Contemporain Geneve, and the Centre de la photographie.

Must eat – Curiositas (8/10 Rue des Vieux Grenadiers, tel. ), opposite MAMCO, is the city’s newest dining sensation. This vast industrial space turned ‘cosy’ dining area is humming during lunch and dinner.

Must drink – Café de la Presse and Le Réservoir (62 Boulevard Saint-Georges) are conveniently interconnected. Sit in the bar area of Presse to enjoy a beer with a local crowd, or lounge in Le Réservoir to sample an international wine and cocktail list with ambient lighting and a laid-back atmosphere.

Dance the night away – SIP (10 Rue des Vieux Grenadiers) is arranged on two floors and welcomes a mixed crowd on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights from 10pm to 4am.

CAROUGE

A delightfully picturesque area only 10 minutes from the town centre on the tram, with colourful town houses converted into bijou restaurants and a plethora of artisan boutiques.

Culture vultures – Head to Flux Laboratory (10 Rue Jacques-Dalphin), an avant-garde exhibition and performance space.

Must eat – La Bourse (7 Place du Marché, tel. ) appears to be a Parisienne-style brasserie, but hides a Swiss-style cave and a pizzeria. The inexhaustible menu of French and Swiss specialities can be served on the terrace in clement weather.

Must drink – Qu’Importe (1 Rue Ancienne) has a cosy interior with open fires for the cold, and a terrace for warmer days. It also boasts one of Geneva’s best international wine lists, with over 20 options served by the glass.

EAUX-VIVES

From the lakeside of Eaux-Vives you can walk out on a quay under the spray of the famous Geneva landmark Jet d’Eau, or rent a small motor or paddle boat (weather permitting).

Sleep soundly – Restaurant Hôtel du Parc des Eaux-Vives (82 Quai Gustav-Ador, tel. , parcdeseauxvives.ch, rooms from €307/CHF 460) is a five-star experience. It’s situated in sumptuous parkland with an uninterrupted lake view, and only five minutes from the centre of town.

Must eat – Pizza! Eaux-Vives is home to approximately 23 pizza restaurants, most of which have the traditional wood-burning ovens. Head to Da Paolo (3 Rue du Lac, tel. ) for its guaranteed buzzy atmosphere and unparalleled selection of pizzas. They don’t take reservations, so be prepared to wait at peak times.

PÂQUIS

This vibrant local quarter is the only area in Geneva where you can find something or other that’s open all hours – from the picturesque to the downright seedy. It’s an area not to be missed on a visit to the city.

Sleep soundly – East West Hotel (6 Rue de Pâquis, tel. , eastwesthotel.ch, rooms from €183/CHF 275) is a trendy boutique establishment in the heart of Pâquis, only two blocks from the lake. The bar and restaurant are sublime, as is the tranquil interior patio.

Must eat – Les 5 Portes (8 Rue de Zurich, tel. ) serves substantial and delicious dishes in eclectic surroundings – you can find yourself sitting on anything from an armchair to a high stool in this artistically haphazard restaurant.

Dance the night away – Palais Mascotte (43 Rue de Berne, tel. ) is an old-style cabaret club that’s been recently revamped for modern tastes. Enjoy dinner and a stage show on the club’s first floor, stand-up cabaret and concerts in the bar area on the ground floor, and a thumping dance scene in the basement.

Compiled by Jane van Lanschot Hubrecht