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France : Nice - April 2010

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In April, temperatures in Nice reach a potential toe-dipping 15°C, but the onslaught of tourists is still a month or so away. Nelly Brown rolls up her trousers to take advantage of the calmer beachfronts, then dons her Jackie O shades and sets off along the coast to explore the nearby principality of Monaco

Getting around

Nice Côte d’Azur Airport is 7km west of the city centre.

Bus: The No.99 departs for Gare Routière, the central bus station just outside the old town, every 20 minutes. Tickets cost €4 and the journey takes about 30 minutes.
Taxi: The journey from the airport to the city centre takes 20 minutes and costs around €30.
Tourist information: The main office is at 5 Promenade des Anglais (tel. , nicetourisme.biz).

PLACE MASSENA

Rococo façades drenched in Pompeian red and ochre make the perfect backdrop to the impressive stretch comprising the Jardin Albert 1er, Baie des Anges and Place Massena. As a crossroads of the city centre, this spot is also an ideal meet-up point – and you can explore some of the city’s chicest shopping while you wait.

Sleep soundly – At Hôtel De Kent (16 Rue Chauvin, tel. ), hotel-kent-nice.cote.azur.fr, rooms from €55) the fabulous location makes up for moderate (but clean) comfort.

Must eat – Japanese chef Keisuke Matsushima’s newest venture, Saison (17 Rue Gubernatis, tel. ), serves up amazing carpaccio, sashimi and delicious tamagoyaki (omelette) that will set you back about €30, excluding wine. Or for something more traditional, Caffé Bianco (9 Rue Chauvain, tel. ) offers homely French dishes from an ever-changing chalkboard – including a veal osso bucco for €12.

Must drink – Soak up spectacular 360˚ views over the Massena gardens and the Mediterranean Sea at the rooftop bar of the Grand Hotel Aston (12 Avenue Félix Faure).

Dance the night away – African-Latino sounds boom through tiny, crowded haunt Le Calypso (8 Descente Crotti) until the early hours.

Shop til you drop – Du Côté de Chez Soi (39 Rue Gioffredo) has the very latest in interior knickknacks. Rue Paradis offers haute couture at Chanel and Hermès , whereas more affordable clothing and shopping can be found a few steps away in Rues de France and Massena. For delectable décor for the garden or home, head to Le Cèdre Rouge du Prince Jardinier (6 Avenue de Verdun).

PLACE DE L’ILE DE BEAUTÉ

Overlooking the old port neighbouring the Antique and Garibaldi quarters, here the bustle of the city sits beside the tranquillity of yachts. Nearby Parc du Chateau, perched up on the hillside, offers jaw-dropping views, while the old town is a stone’s throw away.

Culture vultures – Built in 1840 by Sasserno, the Notre-Dame Church (Rue Fodéré) is a fine example of the néo-renaissance style, with façades and columns added in 1896 by Jules Febvre. A bombardment during WWII left it roofless until 1953, and it’s been listed as an historic monument since 1991.

Must eat – La Zucca Magica (4 bis Quai Papacino, tel. ) serves up tasty vegetarian treats that combine local flavours with strong Italian influences. Across the port, L’Esquinade (5 Quai Des Deux Emmanuel, tel. ) is all about real Niçois specialities, including succulent lamb that oozes garlic and rosemary flavours, served with ratatouille.

Shop til you drop – Head into the old town and stock up on gifts from the myriad of boutique-crammed streets. Don’t miss Le Frigo (3 Rue Benoît Bunico), offering vintage fashion and accessories.

MONACO

The number 100 bus to Monaco leaves Nice every 15 minutes from the Gare Routière, putting the splendour of this principality within easy reach. Street maps can be purchased for a small fee in most shops to facilitate a pleasant stroll.

Culture vultures – Visit the Palais Princier (Palace Square) for guided tours and breathtaking panoramic views overlooking the port and Monte-Carlo.

Must eat – Fine dining of a more affordable kind can be found at Pizzeria Monegasque (4 Rue Terrazzani, tel. ), which serves up cheap and cheerful pizza and barbagiuan – a tasty local speciality consisting of spinach, cheese, leeks and rice.

Must drink – Splurge on a drink at Café de Paris (Place du Casino), and partake in some people-watching in the hope of spotting a star. At €7 for a diet coke, it’s only fair that the celebrities should come for free.

Shop til you drop – Hit the Condamine market (Rue de la Princesse Caroline), featuring tiny boutiques and shops with affordable souvenirs.

Compiled by Nelly Brown