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Portugal : Porto - April 2010

Country Code: Dial 1 for Portugal

There can be few better times to visit Portugal’s northern capital than spring. As the days begin to warm up, Porto makes an ideal base for boat trips up the Douro River, to take in the splendour of a UNESCO world heritage landscape moulded by centuries of vine terracing. Kevin Rose gets a taste of town and countryside

Getting around

Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport

Bus: The 601 bus runs to the city centre every half hour, the 602 runs every 15 minutes. The journey takes about an hour and tickets cost €1.30.
Train: The metro runs into the airport terminal and takes 25 minutes to reach the city centre. Tickets cost €1.35. Trains run from 6.00am to 1.00am.
Taxi: A taxi to the town centre costs about €20 and will take approximately 20 minutes.
Tourist information: 25 Rua Clube dos Fenianos (tel.//, www.visitportugal.com).

BAIXA

Downtown Porto is a huddled mass of streets. Made for exploring on foot, they contain many historical highlights.

Sleep soundly – For the convenience of its central location, the Quality Inn (127-130 Praça da Batalha, tel. , maisturismo.pt/quinnbatalha, rooms from €65) is definitely worth considering. It’s pleasant and welcoming, plus the breakfast buffet will keep you going for much of the day.

Culture vultures – Nearby is Cinema Batalha (47 Praça da Batalha), a converted 1940s cinema that now houses a restaurant, bar (open till 4am at weekends) and terrace to go along with a varied cultural programme. With no dubbing of films in Portugal, you can check out the latest offerings.

Must eat – On a long list of great Porto cafés, Café Guarany (89/85 Avenida dos Aliados, tel. ) stands out. It boasts striking décor and offers everything from snacks to a full menu, while musical traditions are kept alive with Fado performed most Saturdays – along with other regular events.

Shop til you drop – The Porto branch of a national chain of glassware stores, the Depósito da Marinha Grande (129 Rua Bonjardim) has a tremendous range that features every glass object you could possibly think of, in colours you wouldn’t imagine.

BOAVISTA

Stroll in the parks and avenues that surround the Casa da Música and enjoy various other attractions.

Sleep soundly – Porto’s top hotel, the Porto Palácio Congress Hotel and Spa (1269 Avenida da Boavista, tel. , hotelportopalacio.com, rooms from €100) hosts everyone from football teams and rock stars to dignitaries.

Culture vultures – Spring still sees its share of inclement weather, and your indoor options include the recently opened Sea Life aquarium (1a Rua Particular do Castelo de Queijo). Along with all the expected marine creatures, there are exhibits featuring the upper Douro Valley and city landmarks. Especially good for younger visitors.

Must eat – The Bull & Bear (3431 Avenida da Boavista, tel. ) has a reputation for being the best restaurant in the city, with renowned chef Miguel Castro e Silva running the show. The menu interprets many of the classic Porto dishes, but don’t expect much change from €50 per person. There’s a bar and snacks for those with shallower pockets.

Must drink – Bar Hiva-Oa Polinesian (2514 Rua de Boavista) is a challenge to the senses, serving weird and wonderful cocktails to a mixed-age crowd against a garish mock-Hawaiian backdrop.

Shop til you drop – Kicking against the tide of globalised boutique brand shopping, the jeweller David Rosas (1471 Avenida da Boavista) combines a uniquely Porto style, with its long traditions in filigree, with exclusive national representation of the world’s leading watch brands. Surviving and prospering into its 25th year, the store itself is worth admiring.

RIBEIRA (PORTO AND GAIA)

Explore this district of cobbled alleys, bars and restaurants, which runs along both the north (Porto) and south (Gaia) banks of the Douro.

Culture vultures – The riverfront is the place to find boat trips exploring greater or lesser extents of the Douro Valley. Choose from a range of cruises taking in the charm of country towns Amarante and Régua, and a number of palaces and estates. Time it right and you’ll catch the beauty of the cherry orchards in full blossom. Try DouroAzul (Rua de São Francisco) or Barcadouro (Avenida Ramos Pinto, Loja 240).

Must eat – The unimaginatively named Chinês (38/40 Avenida Vímara Peres, tel. ) is an example of the plethora of Chinese restaurants that have mushroomed across the city in recent years, offering cheap and cheerful dining.

Dance the night away – Rock’s Bar (288 Rua Rei Ramiro) is a good option for exposure to the local music scene, with live performances several evenings a week against a backdrop of old port wine cellars.

Compiled by Kevin Rose