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Spain : Seville - April 2010

Country Code: Dial for Spain

Spring is the best time to visit Seville, when orange trees are in blossom and it’s still cool enough for strolling. This city is a cliché of Andalucía, particularly when the April feria takes place in all its polka-dot glory (20-25). The sophisticated fl ipside is the sumptuous Moorish architecture, plus superb shops, restaurants and sights. Josephine Quintero recommends striking out from the gothic cathedral

Getting around

Seville San Pablo Airport

Bus: Buses leave every half hour on weekdays and every hour at weekends. They start at about 6am and finish around 11pm. Tickets cost €2 and the journey takes about 25 minutes.
Taxi: A journey from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and costs approximately €20.
Tourist information: The main tourist offices can be found at 28 Calle Arjona (tel. ) and 19 Plaza de San Francisco (tel. , www.turismo.sevilla.org).

SANTA CRUZ AND AROUND

This is the city’s most picturesque quarter, with cobbled lanes, hidden plazas and dazzling bougainvillea.

Sleep soundly – Patio en Santa Cruz (15 Calle Doncellas, tel. , patiosantacruz.com, rooms from €68) has a lovely roof terrace with views of the Giralda (the cathedral’s bell tower).

Culture vultures – Of all the flamenco tablaos, Los Gallos (11 Plaza Santa Cruz) is the most authentic, with its castanet-clicking performances.

Must eat – Head to old-fashioned La Judería (13 Calle Cano y Cueto, tel. ) for a good-value daily menu and moreish tapas. Alternatively, splash out at La Albahaca (29 Plaza Santa Cruz, tel. ), with exquisitely prepared traditional dishes.

Must drink – Las Teresas (2 Calle Santa Teresa) has faded bullfighting posters and wines from the barrel, while Santa Cruz (Calle Mateos Gago) exudes a vibrant, studenty vibe.

Shop til you drop – Leave plenty of space in your hand luggage for the tempting souvenirs at Lola Ortega (4 Plaza El Cabildo), including exquisite handmade fans.

CENTRO AND EL ARENAL

Seville’s commercial district boasts a tantalising combination of fabulous shops, magnificent buildings, and top drinking and dining options.

Sleep soundly – Economise at Hostal Paco’s (7 Calle Pedro del Toro, tel. , sol.com/hostales-sp, doubles from €50), which has decent ensuite rooms.

Culture vultures – Not the most obvious sight, perhaps, but the baroque Hospital de la Caridad (behind the Maestranza Theatre) features several Murillo and Valdés Leal paintings.

Must eat – A local favourite, with its pretty tiled terrace, traditional tapas and good-value menú del dia, Mesón Serranito (11 Calle Antonia Díaz, tel. ) is near El Corte Inglés. Or for an upper-crust pizza and innovative pasta dishes, go for nearby Italian La Tagliatella (13 Calle Alfonso XII, tel. ).

Must drink – A classic Seville spot, Patio San Eloy (9 Calle San Eloy) has a separate fino (sherry) bar. In El Arenal, meanwhile, the traditional Taberna Coloniales 11 (36 Calle Fernández y González) offers a popular bar and delicious tortilla (potato omelette).

Dance the night away – Seek out the moodily atmospheric Buddha del Mar (Plaza de Armas); a three-storey restaurant-lounge-discoteca with magnificent art deco windows that date from the original train station.

Shop til you drop – Just one of several classy shops on pedestrian Calle Sierpes, Martian Ceramics (74) sells locally produced ceramics with distinctive, finely painted floral patterns.

TRIANA AND LOS REMEDIOS

Los Remedios is the site of this month’s skirt-swirling feria, while adjacent Triana is the evocatively atmospheric former gipsy quarter.

Sleep soundly – With its spacious rooms and parquet floors, Los Remedios’ Monte Carmelo (7 Calle Virgen de la Victoria, tel. , hotelesmonte. com, doubles from €60) is great value.

Culture vultures – Head for Triana’s northern end and the former Carthusian monastery La Cartuja (Isla de la Cartuja) – home to the world-class exhibitions of the Contemporary Art Museum.

Must eat – Triana’s classic seafood restaurant, right on the puente (bridge), El Faro de Triana (Puente de Triana, tel. ) boasts stunning views and reliably good seafood dishes.

Must drink – A typical Triana bar, Casa Manolo (16 Calle San Jorge) is always lively and crowded. On riverfront Calle Betis, meanwhile, Café de la Prensa at number 8 is a laid-back bar and café with walls papered in yellowing print (prensa means press in English).

Shop til you drop – Triana is famed for its traditional ceramics: check out the places on Calle Alfarería, with their cavernous display rooms and workshops.

Compiled by Josephine Quintero