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Sweden : Stockholm - April 2010

Country Code: Dial for Sweden

Encounter spring in Stockholm and experience just how much Swedes love patio dining – even if it means eating while wrapped up in several blankets! Or if you’d prefer an indoor activity, check out the dreamy Invisible Space sound installation at the Kulturhuset (see below). Victoria Larsson explores three of the city’s ’hoods

Getting around

Airport is 8km west of the city.

Bus: Flygbussarna buses link the airport with Stockholm’s bus/train station, Cityterminalen. The journey costs €14/ SEK 130 return and takes 20 minutes, with departures every 20 minutes at peak times.
Taxi: Licensed cabs are available outside the terminal. The fare to the city centre is about €20/SEK 186.
Tourist information: The main office is at 27 Hamngatan, with the entrance on Kungsträdgården (tel. , stockholmtown.com).

NORRMALM

The urban heart of Stockholm is a mecca for high-street shopping, and offers plenty of dining and nightlife for those post-retail splurges.

Sleep soundly – Hotel Skeppsholmen (1 Gröna gången, tel. , hotelskeppsholmen.com, rooms from €93/SEK 950) is the city’s latest design hotel. On the island of Skeppsholmen you’ll be close to everything, but you’ll still feel remote. Ask for one of the extra-large Seaview rooms.

Culture vultures – Kulturhuset (Sergels Torg) always has something interesting going on. The current installation, called Invisible Space, invites you to relax in cosy hollows and be carried away by sound.

Must eat – Back in the day, Prinsen (4 Mäster Samuelsgatan, tel. ) was where Stockholm’s literary elite gathered to drink red wine and share grand ideas. These days, the poets are few and far between – but the meatballs are still fabulous.

Must drink – At wood-panelled, 1970s-inspired bar Kåken (66 Regeringsgatan), you’re likely to be elbowed in the chest by a member of the city’s media elite.

Dance the night away – Every room has a different colour scheme at Ambassadeur (18 Kungsgatan), while the music leans towards R’n’B and soul.

Shop til you drop – Whyred (5 Mäster Samuelsgatan) is the flagship store of one of Sweden’s hippest fashion exports. Shop for clean lines, cool prints and monochrome pieces.

GAMLA STAN

This maze of cobblestone streets, cafés and narrow alleyways is touristy, but the well-preserved 17th-century architecture and city planning is also seductive. Stay away from Västerlånggatan to avoid the worst of the camera-clutching crowds.

Sleep soundly – First Hotel Reisen (12 Skeppsbron, 3260, reisenstockholm.se, rooms from €108/ SEK 1100) sits right on the water, and the rooms retain some of the building’s old charm. The hotel bar, meanwhile, is one of the best in the city, attracting locals as well as hotel guests. Ask for a deluxe queen room with Jacuzzi and private sauna, so you can have a spa experience any time of the day.

Must eat – An 18-seat restaurant on an anonymous corner, Frantzén/Lindeberg (21 Lilla Nygatan, 8580) offers innovative cooking with the finest ingredients and a sly sense of humour.

Must drink – Le Bar Rouge (17 Österlånggatan) is a colourful and slightly over-the-top antidote to Scandinavian design sensibilities. The dark-red romantic interior feels more Moulin Rouge than Stockholm.

Shop til you drop – Ekovaruhuset (28 Österlånggatan) is a miniature department store for all things organic: think cute baby clothing, skincare, shoes and jeans.

HORNSTULL

Stockholm’s last bohemian colony is now almost fully gentrified, but this area, surrounded by water and parks, still offers funky shopping and dining.

Culture vultures – Bio Rio (3 Hornstulls Strand) is a newly renovated cinema, furnished in dark wood and velvet. You won’t see blockbusters here: the programme tends to feature independent films and documentaries, while on Sundays there’s a movie breakfast.

Must eat – Ho’s (151 Hornsgatan, 4420) serves the best Chinese food in Stockholm – make sure you call ahead, as this unassuming restaurant gets packed every night. Vurma (31 Bergsunds Strand, tel. ), meanwhile, is whimsical and kitschy, with soft plush sofas that may swallow you up. It serves imaginative sandwiches with fruit on the side.

Must drink – Worn but stylish, Sjöhästen (24 Långholmsgatan) is a true gem where you’ll get a feel for what this neighbourhood was once like.

Shop til you drop – At the highly specialised boutique Marmeladgalleriet (16 Bergsundsgatan), you’ll find a selection of marmalades that goes way beyond the standard orange variety. How about rhubarb and vanilla?



Compiled by Victoria Larsson

Previous issues for Stockholm
 
   
Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.



 

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