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Belgium : Brussels - May 2010
Country Code: Dial for BelgiumDon’t expect to get a wink of sleep in Brussels in May. From Lesbian & Gay Pride (14-16, blgp.be) and the Jazz Marathon (28-30, brusselsjazzmarathon.be) to the Botanique Music Nights (7-16, botanique. be), this month’s cultural agenda has been designed for festival lovers and street party fans. Nina Lamparski crowd-surfs her way through the city
Getting around
Brussels Airport
Bus: The No 12 bus runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Rond-Point Schuman. The journey takes about 30 minutes. A oneway ticket costs €3.
Train: Trains from the airport run every 20 minutes at peak times. The journey takes 15 minutes and trains go to Brussels’ three mainline stations. Tickets cost approximately €2,80
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost around €25-35. The journey should take about 25 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office can be found on Grand’Place in the city centre (tel. , www.brussels.
PLACE DE L’ALTITUDE CENT
For a long time, this square and its blue-collar neighbourhood offered no particular attraction beyond an Audi factory, local abbey and massive concert arena known as Forest National. These days, however, the multicultural hub is subject to major gentrification efforts and boasts some of the best art venues and bars in town.
Culture vultures – The Human Cities Festival (6-16 May, festival.humancities. eu) unites pioneering institutions from all over Europe to celebrate Brussels’ public spaces as a ‘common good’. While away a sunny afternoon in the lush domain of the Forest Abbey (9 Place Saint-Denis).
Must eat – Booking is recommended at the legendary Schievelavabo (8 Place de L’Altitude Cent, tel. ), a big, flamboyant Belgian restaurant where quick-paced waiters bring you huge portions of local fare with a smile.
Dance the night away – After conquering downtown Brussels, Belgian bar mogul Frédéric Nicolai surprised many by deciding to launch Bar du Matin (172 Chaussée d’Alsemberg) in the heart of the Forest commune. This über-cool venue hosts live bands and DJs and stays open until the wee hours. It’s also a great address to enjoy a late-afternoon beer in the sun on the huge street terrace.
Shop til you drop – Ready your skin for summer with natural cosmetics from Gokan (8 Avenue Albert), which sells products for women, men and children. Vintage hunters, meanwhile, will be in bargain heaven at second-hand furniture temple Troc (9 Rue de Lusambo).
EUROPEAN QUARTER
Don’t yawn – these gleaming concrete fortresses aren’t just responsible for mountains of paperwork. They also attract people from around the world to the neighbourhood, so you’ll find tons of bars, restaurants and shops. Perfect if you’re in the mood for action.
Sleep soundly – Part of the Marriott group, the elegant Renaissance Hotel (19 Rue de Parnasse, tel. , marriott.com, rates from €89) is only seconds from Luxembourg Station, making it a perfect spot to explore the area and venture into town.
Culture vultures – During the annual Festival of Europe (9 May, fetedeleurope. eu) the European institutions open their doors to the general public for one day. Discover what really goes on inside the Commission and European Council. Alternatively, the opulent Charlier Museum (16 Avenue des Arts) showcases 19th-century Belgian paintings, sculptures, tapestry and furniture.
Must eat – Small and old-fashioned, with a touch of the British countryside, Arthur’s (26 Rue de Trèves, ) sells homemade muffins, fresh bread, salads, yummy sandwiches and lots of teas, all to be enjoyed on the spot or taken away. Open from 7am, this is a lovely address to start your day. The place also sells cute things like candles, and jewellery. Meanwhile, the elegant Quartier Léopold (9 Place du Luxembourg, tel. ) dishes up excellent Belgo-French cuisine at relatively modest prices. Nice touch: the fries are served on the side in a little cone.
Must drink – On Friday, head to Place du Luxembourg (opposite the Parliament), when the many café terraces – such as Coco (10 Place du Luxembourg) – are bursting with merry journalists, lobbyists, lawyers and politicians. Irish pub fans will love rustic Wild Geese (2-4 Avenue Livingstone), a beautiful space with plenty of tables, loud music and friendly service. The weekend breakfast (€12.95) and bloody marys are pretty good, too.
Dance the night away – House cats are in for a real treat when Detroit DJ Carl Craig spins the decks at the funky Mirano (38 Chaussée de Louvain) on 15 May. Other hot acts at the club this month include Berlin DJ Steve Bug and London duo D. Berkson & J. What, who’ll be mixing live on 9 May.
WATERMAEL-BOITSFORT
It’s hard to believe that this quiet, picturesque village, pretty as an aquarelle painting, is one of Brussels’ 19 municipalities and lies directly behind the noisy university quarter. Enjoy a sunny countryside break amidst blossoming gardens, cottage houses and cute cafés without leaving the city.
Sleep soundly – Get a cab to the nearby Ixelles neighbourhood and stay at the divine Urban Rooms B&B (10 Rue Alsace Lorraine, tel. , urbanrooms.be, rates from €85). Each of the white rooms features gorgeous wooden floors and lovely wall art. Slick, serene and pretty.
Culture vultures – Bright, fun and family-friendly, public swimming pool Calypso (60 Avenue Leopold Wiener) has stunning bay-window views across trees and meadows. Bonus: it stays open until 8pm during the summer months. Also be sure to check out the gorgeous garden cities known as Le Logis and Floréal, built in the interwar years to provide affordable accommodation for blue-collar workers.
Must eat – New kid on the block The Lodge (2 Rue des Pêcheries, tel. ) is a beautifully designed place serving a successful mix of Belgo-French, Asian and Mediterranean cuisine. For starters, try the fried Saint-Jacques mussels tartuffata, then follow with either the piccata limone accompanied by fresh pasta or the lemon and honey salmon – simply delicious. Best cure for nasty hangovers? A stroll around the bustling Sunday morning market on Place Gilson, where you can indulge in freshly grilled chicken.
Must drink – Combine pleasure with art at cultural centre Espace Delvaux (3 Rue Gratès) during its weekly cinés-apéros, when visitors receive a free drink prior to a movie screening. Visit lavenerie.be for the May programme.
Shop til you drop – Yes, it’s hot outside, but nevertheless a visit to cosy wool store La Filandière (121 Rue Théophile Vander Elst) is highly recommended. Apart from rows and rows of rainbow-coloured threads and fabrics, you’ll also find cute accessories, handmade clothes, bags and design books. Prep for winter, or knit the summer’s most original bikini. Another great address for DIY lovers is pretty crafts temple Marie Ficelle (63 Rue du Relais), which sells glass pearls, fine paper, candles, paints, theatre make-up, deco objects, candles and numerous other creative knickknacks.
BOULEVARD DE L’IMPÉRATRICE
Running along Brussels’ Central Station and the adjacent Mont des Arts square, this broad boulevard offers great views across the Grand’Place and is a great starting point for exploring the lower part of town.
Sleep soundly – You’ll be spoilt for choice in this part of town, but among the best hotels is the Royal Windsor (5 Rue Duquesnoy, tel. , royalwindsorbrussels.com, rates from €78). This five-star establishment has beautiful rooms, including a series created by famous Belgian fashion designers. Check the website for excellent package deals.
Culture vultures – One of the year’s biggest parties happens on the weekend of 8-9 May when Brussels celebrates itself during the Iris Day festival, with numerous free street concerts and fireworks. Note that the entire city centre will turn into a pedestrian zone on the Sunday, for the first time ever.
Must eat – There’s a host of exotic restaurants in the area but you’re likely to fall for the eccentric charm of corner bar-cum-restaurant Waka Moon (60-62 Rue des Eperonniers). Once a library, this small, slightly chaotic place now serves excellent African food and luscious cocktails. There’s a little outdoor terrace in summer, so sit back, relax and enjoy a slower pace of life in the heart of a bustling city.
Shop til you drop – Make a beeline for exquisite lingerie store Underwear (47 Rue Antoine Dansaert), where you’ll find labels such as Comptoir des Cotonniers and Rue Blanche. While on Rue Antoine Dansaert, keep an eye open for the brand-new boutique of internationally renowned designer Carine Gilson. Quirky 1950s postcards, posters, Moleskine diaries and other funky items can be found at Plaiziers (50 Rue des Eperonniers), and head to 2be (31 Rue de Lombard) for urban menswear.
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Previous issues for Brussels
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| Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, please confirm event/venue details in advance. |
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