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Previous issues for Marseille
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Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, please confirm event/venue details in advance. |
Molly Simpson shuns a healthy hike up to the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde. Instead, she fixes her sea legs for a jaunt over to Marseille’s answer to Alcatraz, before hopping on a bus to Aix-en-Provence to reaffirm the sultry Mediterranean pulse
Marseille-Provence
Bus: A shuttle bus connects the airport with the centre of Marseille every 20 minutes or so, and the journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes. Tickets cost €8,50.
Taxi: A taxi to the centre of Marseille from the airport costs about €40 during the day and €50 at night. The journey takes around 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The main office can be found at 4 La Canebière, close to Vieux Port (tel. , www.marseilletourisme.com).
Bustling with locals going about their daily lives and tourists escaping theirs, Marseille’s harbour is the focal point of a city steeped in history and rich in cultural diversity. Guarded by twin fortresses and surrounded by cafés and restaurants, the best place to start is on Quai des Belges.
Culture vultures – Venture to the nearby islands. Frioul If Express (frioul-if-express.com) will take you to the Frioul Archipelago, where the Château d’If is located. A former prison, it was the setting for Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo. Trips cost €10-€15 and depart at various times daily.
Must eat – Le Marseillois (2 Quai du Port, tel. ) offers an onboard dining experience without leaving the port. This once-upon-a-time trading ship serves up delicious fish dishes, with produce coming from the neighbouring market. Those with no sea legs will find reputable gastronomic comfort at Lionel Levy’s Une Table au Sud (2 Quai du Port, tel. ) – though for €100, make sure you ask for a portside view.
Must drink – Grab an early drink at L’Exit Café (12 Quai de Rive Neuve), or head there later to enjoy late-night house music with the local in-crowd.
Shop til you drop – Browse the daily market on Quai des Belges before heading for the shady colonnades to pick up the Marseille must-buy: pastis from La Maison du Pastis (108 Quai du Port). You can choose from the biggest selection of artisanal oils at Place aux Huiles (2 Place Daviel).
Buses leave every 10 minutes from Marseille to Aix-en-Provence, often referred to as the city of a thousand fountains. One of the most notable can be found on the Cours Mirabeau: a 19th-century fountain depicting the ‘good king’ René holding the muscat grapes that he introduced to Provence in the 15th century.
Sleep soundly – Nestled within the walls of an old convent, the Hotel des Augustins (3 Rue de la Masse, tel. , hotel-augustins.com, rooms from €120) is a mix of modernity and history, with the tranquility you would expect from a former house of prayer.
Culture vultures – Place de d’Hôtel de Ville shows off a 17th-century classical style and is home to some of the finest tapestries and woodworks. The clock tower, built in 1510, was the former corn exchange, while the remains of the Roman spa and its thermal springs can also be found nearby. Cathédrale Saint Sauveur (34 Place des Martyrs de la Résistance) is built on the site of a former Roman forum and an adjacent basilica, and contains a mixture of styles from the 5th to the 17th century.
Must eat – La Rotonde (2a Place Jeanne d’Arc, tel. ) serves around the clock in laid-back lounge comfort. All corners of the globe are represented, with Asian specialities including spring rolls and wasabi yoghurt dip. Le Formal (32 Rue Espariat, tel. ) offers a changing menu of seasonal dishes in a vaulted cellar.
Must drink – Enjoy a glass of locally produced wine at Le Carton Rouge (7 Rue Isolette, tel. ) with guidance from the passionate owner/sommelier. The neighbouring epicerie is also a great place for stocking up on the local delicacies.
This area is bourgeoisie meets rebel territory. Lively at most times of the day, Thiers and La Canebière offer street markets around Place Jean Jaurés, as well as boutiques and lazy terraces. Head here to make the most of the long, lazy summer days.
Sleep soundly – Look out for local brands such as streetwear label Kulte (9 Rue Jeune Anarchasis) – a must-have amongst fashionistas. The tourist office can provide a balade urbaine, or shopping guide, on request.
Must eat – Rue Sainte boasts an abundance of eateries with affordable prices, including one of the best, Cantina Corsa (61 Rue Sainte, tel. ), for Corsican treats. Le Bouchon Marseillais (43 Rue Adolphe Thiers, tel. ) offers tapas-style platters in an art-clad dining room.
Previous issues for Marseille
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Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, please confirm event/venue details in advance. |
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