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Italy : Turin - May 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

This month sees the Holy Shroud making a rare public appearance, on show for the first time in 12 years at the Cathedral until 23 May (sindone. org). Elsewhere, the city is getting back into full-on alfresco mode after the winter. Oscar Xavier springs into the city

Getting around

Caselle airport

Bus: A bus service from the airport to the city centre runs every 30 minutes, from 5.15am to 11pm (see www.sadem.it). The journey takes 40 minutes and costs €5.
Train: Trains run directly into Dora station from the airport. The service departs every 30 minutes (see www.gtt.to.it) and takes 40 minutes. Tickets cost €3.
Taxi: A taxi to the city centre takes about 30 minutes and costs €35. Tourist information: The city’s main tourist office is at the Atrium, Piazza Solferino (tel. , www.turismotorino.org).

QUADRILATERO ROMANO

Turin’s celebrated ‘Latin Quarter’, this maze of cobbled streets forms the beating heart of the centro.

Sleep soundly – Hushed and modishly elegant, the NH Santo Stefano (19 Via Porta Palatina, , nh-hotels.it, rooms from €160) has a panoramic terrace and a cosy bar lined with books.

Must eat – One of the city’s best-loved pit stops, Caffè Al Bicerin (5 Piazza della Consolata, , closed Wed) has been around since the 1700s. Treat yourself to the hazelnut cake, or try a zabaione served with marsala and whipped cream. Il Bacaro (3 Via della Consolata, , closed Mon) is nice and relaxed, with live jazz on most nights. Spread over two floors, it specialises in Venetian flavours, including the house fish dish of baccalà alla vicentina.

Shop til you drop – La Terra Delle Donne (18 Via San Domenico) is a vintage boutique stocking pieces from the 1950s onwards, while Sticky Fingers Vintage Store (22d Via delle Orfane) is a treasure trove for furnishing and knickknacks from the 50s and 60s.

MOLE

Heading down towards the university district, Mole is dominated by the tower of the same name – a real city symbol.

Culture vultures – The Museo Nazionale del Cinema (20 Via Montebello, closed Mon) is one of Italy’s most popular museums, providing a rich and varied journey through the history of international film and with interactive playthings galore.

Must eat – Magorabin (61 Corso San Maurizio, , closed all day Sun and Mon lunch) is a swanky eatery offering a Torinese twist on nouvelle cuisine. Try the frog with mortadella and pistachio nuts.

Must drink – Enjoy excellent coffee at Pasticceria Accornero (32 Via Vanchiglia, closed Mon), a wonderfully old-school pastry shop and bar. Caffè Elena (5 Piazza Vittorio Veneto) is a great spot for people watching over a glass or two.

CAMPIDOGLIO

At the centro’s northern edges, this area will play host to the Shroud watchers.

Culture vultures – With the Shroud on show just around the corner, visit the Museo della Sindone (28 Via San Domenico), set in the crypt of the Chiesa del Santissimo Sudario and telling the fascinating tale of the holy cloth.

Must drink – For a classic Torinese aperitivo, Barolino Cocchi (16 Via Bonelli) is an elegant, iconic venue with a neat sideline in nibbles. Il Machè (9 Via della Consolata) offers an altogether more modern experience, with a minimalist décor and glammed-up clientele.

BORGO PO

Lying just south of the river from the centro, this leafy neighbourhood has plenty of green open spaces.

Sleep soundly – The River Hotel (89 Corso Casale, , albergoriverhotel.it, doubles from €80) is a comfy budget option with a cheery, family-run feel. Try and get a room towards the back, away from the sometimes noisy traffic.

Must eat – Monferrato (6 Via Monferrato, ) is a flag-waver for local Piedmont cuisine, keeping things simple with dishes like agnolotti stuffed with beef and pork or the goats’ cheese ravioli. The Pizzeria Alberoni (288 Corso Moncalieri, , closed all day Sun and Mon lunch) is a child-friendly and often very busy pizza joint overlooking the river, with wood-fired ovens. Do make sure you try the mozzarella starters.

Compiled by Oscar Xavier