Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Welcome to the Inflight Magazine of Brussels Airlines

Destination Guides

bthere! Destination guides

Previous issues for Venice

Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy,
please confirm event/venue details in advance.

Italy : Venice - May 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

The 17th-century English traveller Thomas Coryat called Venice, “the most glorious and heavenly show upon the water that ever mortal eye beheld.” In spring, the urge to take to the open water of the lagoon and get out and explore this delightful city and its outlying islands is irresistible. Roderick Conway Morris climbs aboard and discovers the delights of Venice in May

Getting around

Marco Polo International Airport.

Taxi: A road taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma costs about €30. A water taxi will cost approximately €90.
Tourist information: The most helpful tourist office is the Venice Pavilion on the St Mark’s waterfront (, www.turismovenezia.it).
Ferry: Alilaguna ferries go from the airport to Piazza San Marco for €12 (or €25 for the fast, direct service on the Alilaguna Oro). Alternatively, buses cost €3 and stop at Piazzale Roma, opposite the train station. From here, hop on a vaporetto (water bus) to your hotel. One ticket costs €6. The 24-hour pass costs €15.

TORCELLO AND BURANO

Once a populous city, almost all that remains of Torcello today is its ancient cathedral, bell tower and a few houses and villas. While you’re there, a ferry hop across a channel takes you to the bustling and colourful fishing and boat-building island of Burano.

Culture vultures – Torcello’s majestic Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral has just celebrated the millennium of its dedication (though its origins are even older). With Byzantine mosaics and marbles, it’s one of the most beautiful and atmospheric churches in the world.

Must eat – It’s well worth pushing the boat out for Locanda Cipriani (29 Piazza Santa Fosca, Torcello, tel. ). This rustic retreat was a favourite of Hemingway, who dined and stayed here when he came duck-shooting in the lagoon. It has a lovely secluded garden with a perfect view of the cathedral and tower. Da Romano (221 Via Galuppi, Burano, tel. ) is a classic fish trattoria, renowned for its creamy white seafood risotto. It’s located on Burano’s main street, which is named after this island’s most celebrated son, the 18th-century composer Baldassare Galuppi. A few minutes’ walk away, a little more off the beaten track, is the smaller Gato Nero (88 Fondamenta della Giudecca, tel. ), with canal-side tables and an equally tempting array of expertly prepared dishes.

CASTELLO

This hugely varied district stretches eastwards from Piazza San Marco, taking in the Arsenal, the working-class district around Via Garibaldi, and on to the island of Sant’Elena with its wooded park of umbrella pines.

Sleep soundly – A welcoming haven near Piazza San Marco, Hotel Metropole (4149 Riva degli Schiavoni, , metropolevenice.com, rooms from €200) is one of the last family-run Grand Hotels, with a Michelin-starred restaurant run by an adventurous chef and alfresco dining in an attractive garden courtyard.

Culture vultures – The 16th-century collector of ancient and contemporary works Giovanni Grimani spent a large part of his long life turning Palazzo Grimani (Ramo Grimani) into a palace of art. Its marvellous frescoed, marbled, stuccoed and gilded interiors are now open to the public again.

Must eat – With an intimate locale and friendly service, Testiere (5801 Calle del Mondo Novo, ) is tiny, so you should book to ensure you get a table. It specialises in fish dishes, made from only the freshest products, and given imaginative new twists.

Shop til you drop – Pick up beautiful clothes and bags in silk, damask and velvet at Banco No.10 (3478 Salizada Sant’ Antonin), all made at the atelier in the women’s prison on Giudecca.

ZATTERE

The long stretch of south-facing waterfront along the wide Giudecca Canal takes its name from the rafts (zattere) of timber that were once floated downriver from the Alps to supply the boat builders’ yards that used to fill the shoreline here. Explore the area in full and imagine what it was like with all the hustle and bustle as the logs were floated downstream.

Sleep soundly – The Victorian art historian John Ruskin lodged at La Calcina (780 Fondamenta delle Zattere, , lacalcina.com, rooms from €150). Now a comfortable modern hotel, it also has a good restaurant with a terrace on the water, panoramic views over the Giudecca Canal and light, bright rooms done out in polished wood and pale linen.

Must eat – After a gentle amble beside the canals, feast on delicious fish and fresh pizza at Alle Zattere (791 Fondamenta delle Zattere, ). With tables over the canal, a good view is guaranteed.

Must drink – Among the cafés along the front, Laguna Bar (794 Zattere, ), across the street from the Gesuati church, is a pleasant spot to catch the sun and enjoy an aperitif.

Compiled by Roderick Conway Morris