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Lithuania : Vilnius - May 2010

Country Code: Dial 0 for Lithuania

May is arguably Vilnius’ finest month. With the last of the snow slush consigned to history, it bursts on to the scene in a blaze of colour, with some truly glorious sunny days as the city comes to life. Richard Schofield ventures forth

Getting around

Vilnius International Airport

Bus: The no. 1 bus goes to the central train station every 10–15 minutes. Tickets bought onboard cost €0,40/LTL 1.40.
Train: A fast train leaves every hour from the airport between 6am and 9pm and takes 10 minutes to get to the central station.
Taxi: A taxi from the airport to the city centre takes about 15 minutes and should cost €11,60/LTL 40
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 22 Vilniaus Gatve ( 0, vilniustourism. lt).

SENAMIESTIS

The chocolate-box charm of the Old Town’s architecture is irresistible. May sees its ancient, crooked streets awash with outdoor restaurants and bars.

Sleep soundly – Inside a beautifully restored 17th-century Carmelite monastery, Domus Maria (12 Ausros Vartu, 0, domusmaria.lt, rooms from €58/LTL 199) offers superb value a stone’s throw from the Dawn Gate.

Culture vultures – Organised by the National Philharmonic Society, the Vilnius Festival (filharmonija.lt) was founded in 1997 and features classical concerts as well as jazz and avant-garde performances from home and abroad. Most concerts take place in the gorgeous National Philharmonic building.

Must eat – Bringing new meaning to fusion food, Graf Zeppelin (9 Saviciaus, ) serves a range of classic German dishes on which several Lithuanian favourites are based.

CITY CENTRE

The Imperialist Russian and socialistrealist architecture of the city’s relatively small centre conceals the lion’s share of Vilnius’ sights.

Sleep soundly – Two good-looking apartments with full amenities, Avenue Apartments (44 Gedimino, , vilnius-apartment.com, rooms from €45/LTL 155) is a good self-catering option.

Must eat – Staffed by former drug users, Mano Guru (22/1 Vilniaus, 6) is not only a social experiment but also one of the best restaurants in town, specialising in hot and cold salads.

Must drink – For excellent-value beer and live rock music, head to lively Pogo (12 Vilniaus). For something less frenetic, the lovely walled garden at Plieno Paukštis (11b Kalinausko) is a great place on a balmy May evening.

Dance the night away – Woo (22 Vilniaus) is an industrial-themed cellar venue that provides some of the best DJs and jazz bands in the country.

UŽUPIS

The renegade population of Užupis declared themselves an independent state on April Fools’ Day 1997, with their own president and flag. Arty and edgy, spend a day wandering the streets and drinking in the bars.

Must drink – The riverside setting of Uzupio Kavine (2 Uzupio) is one of the top spots for outdoor drinking in the city. After dark, head up the hill to Snekutis (7a Polocko), a small wooden cabin serving a range of beers from the best of the country’s microbreweries.

DRUSKININKAI

Some 130km southwest of Vilnius, the sleepy spa town of Druskininkai is just 90 minutes away on the regular bus service. The birthplace of actor Charles Bronson’s Tatar father, the town is also home to the country’s former Soviet-era statues and monuments.

Sleep soundly – Four-star Druskininkai (43 Kudirkos, , hoteldruskininkai. lt. rooms from €60/LTL 210) offers top-notch accommodation with an attached water park and beauty salon.

Culture vultures – The country’s most famous painter and composer, Mikalojus Konstantinas Ciurlionis (1875-1911), spent his childhood in what’s now the Ciurlionis Memorial Museum (35 Ciurlionio). Just north of town, Gruto Parkas (Grutas) is a large sculpture park where likenesses of Lenin and the gang now reside.

Must eat – The lakeside Forto Dvaras (55 Ciurlionio, ) serves classic Lithuanian cuisine in an old-world setting. Dine alfresco at Vido Malunas (4 Veisieju, ), a converted mill on the small Ratnycia River.

Compiled by Richard Schofield