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Italy : Bologna - June 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Come June in Bologna summer’s in full swing, with bars and cafés spilling out on to the pavements. Indoors, there’s still time to catch the excellent Fellini exhibition at the MAMbo arts centre (until 25 June, mambo-bologna.org), while the Biografilm Festival hits various venues across the city (9-14 June, biografilm.it). Matt Barker queues up for some popcorn

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

VIA MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO

One of the city’s main shopping streets, Via Massimo d’Azeglio features a parade of chic stores and equally chichi clientele. Head here to hang out with Bologna’s beautiful crowd.

Sleep soundly – The Roma Hotel (9 Via D’ Azeglio, tel. , hotelroma. biz, rooms from €95) is an upmarket bolt-hole sitting pretty among the shops. Treat yourself to a suite with a gambrel roof looking out across the city.

Must drink – The Enocafè Ristorante Panevino (28/30 Via Garibaldi, closed Mon) is a relaxed hangout. Primarily a wine bar, you can also enjoy a spot of breakfast in here.

Shop til you drop – Gucci and Armani have established beachheads along here, but look out for the speciality shops – try Ateseta (1 Via Massimo d’Azeglio) for mens’ shirts and ties, Cremonini Pelletteria Valigeria (12) for luggage and Mondadori (34) for books, CDs and DVDs.

VIA DEL PRATELLO

A busy little street tucked around the corner from the Piazza San Francesco.

Culture vultures – Follow the example of the locals and take to two wheels to discover the joys of the centro. You can hire a bicycle from Bike in BO (97 Via del Pratello), and they’ll also arrange an English-language tour for you. After all, it’s a great way to burn off some of that pasta – but watch out for the swarms of scooters.

Must eat – It’s not all lasagne and tortellini in this city. The Sardinian Osteria del Montesino (74b Via del Pratello, tel. ) is one of Bologna’s best – choose pasta from the daily menu, and try the seadas (pastry filled with cheese and honey).

Must drink – If you’re in the mood for a beer or two, the Birreria del Pratello (24 Via del Pratello, closed Sun) is a decent pub, or there’s Mutenye (44a Via del Pratello) just up the road.

VIA MASCARELLA AND THE MONTAGNOLA PARK

Just to the north of the centro, this is a nicely buzzy quarter with the added bonus of a bit of greenery.

Must eat – Tuck into classic Bolognese cuisine (the menu includes fillets of pork in balsamic vinegar with honey) at Cantina Bentivoglio (4/b Via Mascarella, tel. ), along with one of the city’s best wine lists – there are over 400 varieties to work your way through. Nearby Bravo Caffè (1 Via Mascarella, tel. ) is a smart dining room where you can enjoy an antipasto of finely sliced veal with orange.

Must drink – The arty Golem (3/b Piazza San Martino) is a nicely boho bar that comes alive in the evening when a chatty crowd familiarise themselves with the long and winding wine list.

Shop til you drop – The weekly antique market (Via Valdonica) takes place every Thursday, with well-stocked stalls lining the street. The Galleria Marescalchi (116B Via Mascarella) sells fine art prints and paintings, including works by local boy made good Giorgio Morandi.

MERCATO DI MEZZO

In the heart of the historic centro, this maze of cobbled streets is the city’s old market district.

Sleep soundly – Al Cappello Rosso (9 Via De’ Fusari, tel. , alcappellorosso.it, rooms from €108) is one of the city’s oldest hotels and includes six special ‘Lady Rooms’ especially for the fairer sex. The rest of us can try for one of the top-floor rooms with sloping roofs.

Culture vultures – The Palazzo dei Banchi (Piazza Maggiore) takes its names from the money-changers who conducted their business in the square. Dating from the 1400s, the Piazza was also the seat of medieval guilds and forms a suitably majestic backdrop to the Mercato.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on local gastro goodies at Melega (14 Via Clavature), while over at swanky Arrigo Veronesi (4/F Via dell’Archiginnasio) you can give the credit card a workout and invest in some top-end jewellery.

Compiled by Matt Barker