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Italy : Bologna - September 2010

Country Code: Dial for Italy

September in Bologna sees locals fl ooding back after the midsummer break. If you’re in town at the beginning of the month, the I-Day Festival at the Arena Parco Nord includes a performance from Arcade Fire (2 and 4 September, indipendente. com), while the Danza Urbana festival takes place at various venues throughout the month (danzaurbana.it). Matt Barker is our city guide

Getting around

Guglielmo Marconi Airport is 6km outside the city

Bus: A shuttle bus runs from the airport to the train station every 15 minutes. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs €5. Other buses serve Modena and Siena.
Taxi: The journey to the city centre takes about 20 to 30 minutes and costs about €18.
Tourist information: The main office is in Piazza Maggiore (9660).

IRNERIO

In the heart of the centro but away from the crowds around Piazza Maggiore, Irnerio makes an ideal base for exploring.

Sleep soundly – The Zanhotel Tre Vecchi (47 Via Dell’ Indipendenza, tel. , zanhotel.it, rooms from €70) is central and has a pleasant old-world air. Street noise can be a problem, however, so book a room towards the back.

Culture vultures – Cool off in the Botanical Gardens (42 Via Irnerio, closed Sunday) or The National Picture Gallery (56 Via Belle Arti, closed Monday) which houses works by Giotto, Raffaello and Tiziano.

Must eat – Donatello (8 Via Righi Augusto, tel. ) is an old-school Bologna trattoria, where devoted locals pitch up for belt-busting bowls of tortelli filled with walnuts and cream. The Cantina Bentivoglio (4b Via Mascarella, tel. ) is another classic eatery; take a deep breath, go for the four courses and don’t miss the pork fillets with potato pie.

SANTO STEFANO

The beating heart of the medieval city, Santo Stefano is all cobbled charm and buzzy street life.

Must eat – La Tua Piadina (17a Via Borgonuovo, tel. ) serves up piadine: pizza-style bread with fillings including bresaola, Parmesan and rocket. Scacco Matto (63b Via Brocchindosso, tel. ), meanwhile, has a seasonal menu with a Mediterranean bent.

Must drink – Caffé Pasticceria Zanarini (1 Piazza Galvani) is a typically grand café and cake shop where you can enjoy a superior caffeine fix, while Rosa Rose Bistrot (18b Via Clavature) is a chic spot for an early-evening apéritivo.

Shop til you drop – Stock up on chocolates, liquorice and other treats at Enoteca Gilberto (5 Via Drapperie) and give your autumn wardrobe a boost at L’Inde Le Palais (6 Via dei Musei), offering gladrags by Lanvin and Valentino.

MARCONI

This well-heeled enclave of the centro is named after the inventor of the first telegraph.

Sleep soundly – The Palace Hotel (9 Via Monte Grappa, tel. , hotelpalace bologna.com, rooms from €50) is set in an old palazzo, with period furniture and chatty staff. Go for a top-floor room with a view.

Culture vultures – If you feel the need to get out of the centro, take a trip to the Villa Aldrovandi Mazzacorati (19 Via Toscano), with gardens, a toy soldier museum and a small theatre.

Shop til you drop – For shoes, head to Daniele Ancarani (8a Via Porta Nova); for wine and olive oil, I Campetti (2b Via Belvedere).

SAN VITALE

Sitting just off the centro, this quarter is popular with Bologna’s student population.

Culture vultures – This quarter takes its name from the San Vitale e Agricola in Arena church (50 Via San Vitale), with its 13th-century bell tower and 11th-century crypt. Palazzo Malvezzi Campeggi (22 Via Zamboni) has an open-air gallery and shaded courtyards with porticoes and Doric columns.

Must eat – It’s still ice cream weather, and Il Gelatauro (98b Via San Vitale), is one of Italy’s best gelaterias; the orange champagne sorbet is delicious.

Must drink – If you’re in a beer mood, Harry’s Pub (7 Vicolo Vinazzetti) is a student favourite, while the Caffè Taverna Dentro Porta (74a Via Zamboni) is great for a drink with some lively locals.

Compiled by Matt Barker