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United Kingdom : Bristol - May 2010

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In long forgotten days, Bristol was a backwater trading port tucked in beneath the curve of Wales, famous for its residents’ copious cider consumption and the cider-based tribute band The Wurzels. The city has long since fought against this representation, and in 2010 it boasts a rich micro-culture all of its own. Named as Britain’s first cycling city, Bristol has learnt to go forth and lead where others follow. Sarah Ellis saddles up to explore on two wheels

Getting around

Bristol International Airport

Bus: The Bristol International Flyer connects the airport to Temple Meads Rail Station and Bristol Bus Station, with drop-off points around the city centre including Clifton. Services run every 15-20 minutes between 5am and 12.10am from Temple Meads. A return ticket costs €10/£7.
Taxi: A single journey from the airport to the city centre costs around €23/£16 and takes about 30 minutes.
Tourist information: The central tourist information is at Wildwalk-At-Bristol, Harbourside (tel. , visitbristol.co.uk).

CITY CENTRE

The ever expanding, pulsating centre of Bristol breathes life through narrow winding roads and up steep streets to the waterfront. Here the city’s artistic atmosphere is evident at every turn, with on-trend boutiques and unique galleries.

Sleep soundly – One of Bristol’s newest hotels, the Radisson Blu (Broad Quay, tel. , radissonblu.co.uk/ hotel-bristol, rooms from €85/£75) opened in October last year and boasts a prime waterfront location in a striking glass-fronted building. Book one of the rooms on the higher floors for spectacular harbour and city views.

Culture vultures – The Bristol City Museum and Art Gallery (Queens Road) is host to a cornucopia of ancient treasures and contemporary art. Starting in May is Art from the New World, which looks at the artistic spectrum of modern-day Los Angeles. St George’s Bristol (Great George Street), meanwhile, is the south west’s leading concert hall. This month sees some fantastic events, including Indian percussionist Sandeep Raval on 15 May as part of the Migrations programme.

Shop til you drop – Park Street is a fashionista’s paradise. Visit Cara (26) for fabulous shoes and Cooshti (57) for urban designer brands such as Maharishi and G-Star.

WELSH BACK

Water is vital to the centre of the city, lending a feeling of space and tranquillity to an area packed with bars and restaurants. You can pass many an hour in style on Welsh Back, enjoying waterside cocktails and laid-back dining.

Must eat – The Glass Boat (Welsh Back, tel. ) is a Bristol institution. Go down for ‘Soul Sundays’, when brunch can be enjoyed to funky chilled-out sounds all day long. The scrambled duck egg is a phenomenon in its own right. For something more continental, the recently redeveloped Aqua Italia (Welsh Back, tel. ) has a new lease of life as a contemporary Italian. The fish is consistently fabulous, and don’t forget to finish things off with one of the signature bellini cocktails.

Dance the night away – Stay away from the heaving waterfront and make your way to Thekla (Welsh Back); a bar and club aboard a moored ship that reflects the flipside of Bristol nightlife. Mercury Prize-winner Speech Debelle will be appearing on 22 May.

CLIFTON

The climb up Whiteladies Road is well worth it to experience the Clifton vibe. Observe how the village manages to juggle quirky and classy at the same time before taking a deep breath of fresh air on the Downs.

Sleep soundly – The chic Berkeley Square Hotel (15 Berkeley Square, tel. , cliftonhotels/ berkeley-square, rooms from €161/ £145) stands majestically over the leafy Georgian square. The hotel has its own private members’ club and contemporary art gallery.

Must eat – Sands (95 Queens Road, tel. ) is an old favourite for Lebanese cuisine. The mezze platters are made for sharing and the garden is a gorgeous place to while away the time on warm evenings.

Must drink – At Amoeba (10 Kings Road), try a few of the various beers on offer. The British banana bread beer is an acquired taste, but endlessly popular.

REDCLIFFE

Bars, restaurants and hotels are springing up around the spire of St Mary Redcliffe, with an individual feel being created for the area.

Sleep soundly – You’ll find sumptuous rooms and a luxurious spa at Mercure Bristol Holland House (Redcliffe Hill, tel. , mercure.com, rooms from €106/ £95).

Must eat – Byzantium (2 Portwall Lane, tel. ) serves fine tapas.

Compiled by Sarah Ellis