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Italy : Cagliari - September 2008

Country Code: Dial for Italy

Cagliari has thousands of years of history, well-preserved architectural gems and a cosmopolitan feel. With its medieval edifi ces, stunning coastline, great cuisine and vibrant nightlife, the Sardinian capital is well worth discovering. And as Chicca Marelli fi nds, September’s warm, sunny days are ideal for exploring the city

Getting around

Cagliari Elmas Airport

Bus: ARST blue buses run to Piazza Matteotti every 30 minutes from 8.45am to 11.40pm. Go to the bus stop in front of Arrivals. The journey takes about 15 minutes and costs €2 for a single ticket.
Taxi: Taxis are available outside the airport terminal and cost from €15-€18 to the city centre. The journey takes 10-15 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is at 95-97 Piazza Matteotti (tel. , aast.ca.it). There are also tourist information points at Via Mameli and Elmas Airport.

CASTELLO

Step back in time in the unspoilt heart of Cagliari within the old city walls. Climb up the Bastion of San Remy or the Pisan Towers for the best views over the city and the sea.

Sleep soundly – Housed in an unmistakable glass tower, T Hotel is Caglliari’s first design hotel. The décor is contemporary and minimalist and it’s furnished with Philippe Starck pieces.

Culture vultures – The Teatro Civico di Castello (Via de Candia) is exhibiting costumes and stage sets from the Teatro Lirico until the end of the month.

Must eat – The elegant Ristorante Mariò (12-16 Via Genovesi, tel. ) is located in the historic Palazzo Candia. Eat on the terrace for wonderful views over the city.

Shop til you drop – Visit the studio and shop of Claudio Brai (37 Via Lamarmora) to pick up wonderful pottery.

Must drink – There’s a good selection of wines and cocktails at Bossanova Wine Bar (309 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II).

Dance the night away – Lido (41 Viale Poetto) is a long-running favourite by the beach.

MARINA

Narrow alleys, fishing boats, glittering water and countless cafés make Cagliari’s waterfront one of the most rewarding areas of the city to roam.

Sleep soundly – Situated right in the heart of the district, Hotel Italia is comfortable and reasonably priced.

Must eat – Book ahead for simple Sardinian food like bottarga (spaghetti dressed in olive oil and dried, grated tuna roe) at traditional trattoria Lu Lilicu (78 Via Sardegna, tel. ).

Must drink – There’s a good selection of wines and cocktails at Bossanova Wine Bar (309 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II).

POETTO

Locals call Poetto beach il salotto (the living room). In September, the weather is still good enough to pull everyone out of town at weekends

Must eat – Ottagono (Viale Poetto. tel. ) serves typical Sardinian dishes, fresh fish and delicious pizzas alongside great views over the shore.

Dance the night away – Lido (41 Viale Poetto) is a long-running favourite by the beach.

Shop til you drop – The bustling San Benedetto market is the largest produce market in all of Italy. Unmissable.

Must drink – American Bar Biffi (6 Via San Giovanni) is flamboyantly decorated with a menu full of great cocktails.

STAMPACE

The site of its holiest places, Stampace is often called ‘the city’s soul’. It’s also home to some exquisite traditional artisan workshops.

Culture vultures – Tropical plants fill the 18th-century Botanical Garden (11 Viale San Ignazio da Laconi), a verdant oasis in the historic city.

Must eat – Choose seafood at Quattro Mori (93 Via Giovanni Maria Angioy, tel. ), which has a huge range of starters. Then head straight to Isola del Gelato (35 Piazza Yenne) to try one of the 100-plus flavours of ice cream on offer – ideal fuel for people-watching on the piazza.

Compiled by Chicca Marelli