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Sweden : Gothenburg - July 2010

Country Code: Dial for Sweden

July is a popular time to visit Gothenburg, so stray off the beaten path and explore a big vibrant city that has retained its friendly, small-time vibe. Veronica Svanberg uncovers Gothenburg’s secret summer charm

Getting around

Landvetter

Bus: Flygbussarna airport coaches stop at Nils Ericson Terminalen (the main bus station), Kungsportsplatsen (for the old town), Park Avenue (on Avenyn) and Korsvägen. A return ticket costs €15/SEK 140 and takes 30 minutes, with departures every 20 minutes during peak times.
Taxi: Taxis offer a fixed price for the 30-minute journey into town (about €36/SEK 338).
Tourist information: The main tourist office is located at 2 Kungsportsplatsen (2500, goteborg.com).

EVENTSTADEN

This industrial part of town may not be that cosy, but what it lacks in beauty it makes up for in substance. It’s home to Gothenburg’s amusement park, Liseberg, the Världskulturmuseet (Museum of World Culture) and the opera house.

Sleep soundly – Gothia Towers (24 Mässans gata, tel. , gothiatowers.com, rooms from €176/ SEK 1695) is the largest hotel in Scandinavia, with over 700 rooms. For a tranquil experience book the ‘relaxing room’: a suite equipped with purified air, special lighting and sound themes to optimise the experience of calm.

Culture vultures – GöteborgsOperan opera house (Christina Nilssons gata) was designed by Jan Izkowitz, who took inspiration from the world of opera and the harbour setting. The design mimics the outline of sails, bridges and ships.

Must eat – On the ground floor of Gothia Towers, Italian Incontro (tel. ) resembles a set from a Bond film in the Roger Moore era. There’s regular live music in the piano bar and Friday evenings sees locals crowding around a free ‘after-work buffet’.

Must drink – The Cocktail bar at the opera house offers a wonderful view of the harbour, as well as perfectly chilled and shaken libations.

INOM VALLGRAVEN

Enclosed by canals, this central area is easily covered by foot. If you’re looking for the most fashion-forward shops and the swankiest department stores, this is where you’ll find them.

Sleep soundly – The four-star Radisson Blu (59-65 Södra Hamngatan, tel. , gothenburg.radissonsas.com, rooms from €145/SEK 1390) is right by the train station and offers bright and comfortable rooms.

Must eat – Zozaki (3 Stora Nygatan, 1596) serves delicious, inexpensive Japanese food. For more fresh fish, head to the famed and fabled Feskekörka (Rosenlundsgatan). The name means ‘Fish Church’, and this indoor market is truly a place of seafood worship. Stalls and restaurants serve only the freshest fishy delicacies.

Must drink – Some Stockholm snobs claim that the delicious coffee from Bar Centro (31 Kyrkogatan) is the only reason to go to Gothenburg.

Dance the night away – Nefertiti (6 Hvitfeldtsplatsen) is a long-standing jazz venue that now also offers up club nights, hip-hop music and the occasional indie rock night.

Shop til you drop – Interiors store Norrgavel (22 Magasinsgatan) sells stylish Scandinavian furniture, home accessories and bedding, all bearing the environmentally friendly ‘Swan’ label.

VASASTADEN

The buildings are bigger, the boulevards wider, and there are more cafés and nightclubs here than elsewhere in town.

Sleep soundly – Part of a small Swedish chain, the Mornington Hotel (6 Kungsportsavenyn, tel. , mornington.se/goteborg, rooms from €83/SEK 795) is stylish and a bit quirky, with contemporary art on the walls.

Must eat – The address has a long culinary history, but bistro Brasserie Ett (1 Kungsportsavenyn, 7730) is a new addition to the city’s thriving restaurant scene. Inexpensive and uncomplicated, the delicious food keeps customers coming back.

Dance the night away – Nightclub Park Lane (36-38 Kungsportsavenyn) is over the top, camp and great fun. Robbie Williams and Marlene Dietrich have both partied here.

Shop til you drop – Fever (15 Karl Gustavsgatan) is where you go to get your fill of Scandi fashion. Shop for pieces by The Furies, Diana Orving and Gothenburg’s own Elvine.

Compiled by Veronica Svanberg