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Slovenia : Ljubljana - September 2008

Country Code: Dial 6 for Slovenia

Summer may be officially coming to an end, but autumn days can still be balmy in the Slovenian capital. As the pavement cafés make a last defiant stand against the impending winter, Robin McKelvie takes a seat to watch Ljubljana’s youthful citizens taking in the autumn air

Getting around

Brnik Airport

Bus: The bus journey from the city centre to Brnik Airport usually takes 35 minutes, but can last up to an hour when the roads are busy. A one-way ticket costs €10.
Taxi: A single journey from the airport to the city centre for up to four passengers costs €30 and takes about 20 minutes.
Tourist information: The main tourist office is the STIC at Krekov Square (tel. , ljubljana.si).

THE CENTRE

The centre of Ljubljana is packed with striking art nouveau architecture and, being relatively flat, it’s easy to get around.

Sleep soundly – Popular with business travellers, the Grand Hotel Union Business is the four-star sister to the more ornate Grand Hotel Union Executive next door. Emonec is bright, friendly and much cheaper.

Culture vultures – The Slovenian Philharmonic Hall (10 Kongresni trg) is home to the Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra and an essential stop for devotees of classical music.

Must eat – Named after artist and illustrator Hinko Smrekar, Smrekarjev Hram (2 Narorjeva ulica, tel. ) serves upmarket Slovenian specialities in cosy surroundings and has long been considered one of the best restaurants in the city. At the other end of the scale, Sushimama (12 Wolfova, tel. ) serves excellent sushi and sashimi as well as lovely Japanese beer.

Must drink – Cutty Sark (1 Knaflev Prehod) is a wildly popular bar filled with tourists, ex-pats and locals.

Dance the night away – At night, head for the nefarious delights of Global (2 Tomsiceva cesta) and Bachus (3 Kongresni trg).

OLD TOWN

The fairytale Old Town is awash with cobbled streets and historic buildings.

Culture vultures – To the layman, Saint James’ (18 Gornji trg) is just a lovely church, but the building made the seminal Slovenian architect Joze Plecnik’s blood boil so much he ordered trees be planted to shield it from view.

Must eat – Sokol (18 Ciril Metodov trg, tel. ) serves up heaped plates of traditional Slovenian goodies like prekmurska gibanica (a cake similar to strudel, made with poppy seeds, curd cheese and apples). The game plate here is really good, too, and it also produces its own beer. Meanwhile, Luka Gourmet (9 Stari trg, tel. ) offers great value, tasty lunches.

Must drink – Café Pri Skelet (5 Klujcavnicarska) has somewhat ghoulish décor and some great happy-hour offers. Raggamuffin (4 Krojaska) shows the spirit of Bob Marley is alive and well.

RIVERSIDE

The relaxed banks of the Ljubljanica River are where the locals come to cycle, stroll or just chill out on mild autumn days.

Must eat – Zlata Ribica (5 Cankarjevo Nabrezje, tel. ) is the place to go for top-notch fish lifted fresh from Slovenia’s bijou Adriatic coastline. Enjoy more affordable seafood at Ribca (Trznica Jozeta Plecnika), where the market traders grab lunch.

Must drink – “Meet me at Macek” goes the popular refrain, so join the crowds and enjoy the atmospheric interior and riverside terrace at Café Macek (5 Krojaska). Kavarna Planet Plocnik (Presernov trg) is the place for outdoor drinking and has a lovely riverside terrace plus patio heaters to help keep you cosy as the days become a little cooler.

TRNOVO AND KRAKOVO

These twin suburbs are slightly off the beaten track, but both are well worth making the short journey south of the city centre for.

Culture vultures – Check out the handywork of seminal Slovenian town planner and architect Joze Plecnik, who designed many buildings in the city as well as the City Canal and riverbanks.

Must eat – Breskvar (28 Cestna na Loko, tel. ) is a classy restaurant renowned for its excellent traditional food. Catch the last rays of sunshine in its pretty garden. Pri Skofu (8 Recna, tel. ), meanwhile, is an informal eatery where real care and attention goes into the daily specials.

Must drink – Sax Pub (7 Eipprova) is a fun pub/ music venue with a graffitied façade where anything goes and frequently does.

Compiled by Ljubljana’s